Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Thus a delicate wire may lift a deep red ruby as the stamen of a flower,
alive in its motion and varying gleam. Or a diamond on a quivering
stem may seem to dance with airiness and light. A spread of platinum
angel-fern may move its delicate fronds; a sprig of heather in fine
metal and stone vibrate with the lilt of the Highlands. The many ways
in which the mobile clip can add life to one’s wardrobe are beyond
enumeration; all are at once eye-catching and continuously alluring.
_The Sentimental Brooch_
More than all other jewels, the pin and the brooch have attached to
themselves sentimental associations and values beyond their intrinsic or
artistic worth. A ring may often preserve the memory of a dear person
or a cherished occasion, but it is seldom large enough for an actual
memento. Anne Boleyn, wife of Henry VIII of England, had a portrait of
herself hidden in a ring of diamonds and mother-of-pearl; when she was
taken to be executed she gave the ring to her little daughter, who in
turn kept it hidden until she ascended the throne as Queen Elizabeth I.
But more often such miniatures, set in what was called a picture-box,
were worn on a chain or as a brooch. The clip is still too new to have
developed these sentimental associations but, being merely a brooch with
a modernized fastener, it will no doubt gather to itself a goodly store
of memories.
In addition to a miniature portrait or a painting of a familiar scene,
such as the country home of one held to a life in the city, the brooch
may contain other ties to things beloved. Under a transparent stone
or coat of colorless enamel may be pressed a lock of hair. The jewel
itself may be shaped so as to symbolize a family—as a coat of arms; or
a people—as the maple leaf worn by Queen Elizabeth II, a gift from and
a symbol of the Commonwealth of Canada. The lady who launches a ship
receives, from the builders or the owners, a diamond pin that is indeed,
to her and those that come after her, a precious memento of a signal
occasion.
_Replicas of Pets_
Popular among the special brooches with personal ties are those that
represent or memorialize a beloved pet. I have made several portraits of
dogs in gold and precious stones, worked so as not merely to resemble the
features but in some degree to capture the individual characteristics of
the animal. One of these I especially prize, as it evokes, to me and to
my family and friends, my own and favorite dog.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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