Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
In Vienna, our firm was once commissioned by the Emperor Franz Josef
I to create a brooch bearing the likeness of one of his great beloved
Lippizaner stallions, the one that is immortalized in the novel
_Florian_. This pin contains hundreds of diamonds; those that make up
the mane and the tail had to be specially cut and are so small that it
takes more than a thousand to make a carat. The Emperor prized the jewel
and gave it to his favorite actress, the Baroness von Schratt. After the
Baroness’s death, her treasures were sold, and we are happy to state that
the jewel horse is now back with the firm that made it.
_Pins Hold Memories_
Perhaps because of these various associations, it seems that a more
personal aura glows about a brooch than any other jewel. It may be
merely because a loved one has worn it earlier. A sort of intimate,
binding emotion draws one to the jewel, such as no article of clothing,
no accessory—scarf, gloves, hair band—can ever work into a spell. Other
jewels, especially the ring, may gather associations around them, but
preeminently heart-entangling is the brooch.
My grandmother, for instance, on many gay occasions when I was a child,
wore high on her collar a beautiful emerald brooch. Long passed from
sight and never spoken of, it finally came to me as a family heirloom.
And at once my heart quickened with a fresh surge of memory. I had, and
still have, a vivid recollection of how she looked when she was wearing
it, and many a pleasant time I summon back. I cherish this brooch more
and more along the passing years. Thus in many families a treasured and
memoried pin holds as a binder between the generations. In these days of
widely scattered families, such a brooch can indeed be an endearing tie.
_Practical Principles_
As I have said, there are just a few general thoughts to be kept in mind
when selecting a brooch or clip.
The gold clip is admirable for daytime use. Until a few years ago, this
might be quite a solid, heavy-looking jewel. Today it is light, even
lacy; often it is made of fine wires, perhaps twisted or stranded, and
intricately worked, like similar jewels of the Renaissance. The jewel
itself may be large, but the light and lacy effect will maintain its
charm.
When a clip, in the hair or on the dress, is worn with earclips, it need
not be the same as these, but it should be of the same material and of
course should harmonize. Usually the earclips set the pattern, because
they must be carefully chosen to fit the features; the greater freedom
of choice with the clip permits one to select many attractive designs
that will conform. If the earclips are of rubies or of emeralds, the clip
should be the same. Only the diamond will consort with any other stone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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