A paved walk, guarded on each side by majestic cypress trees, winding
its course along terraced gardens and near refreshing fountains, leads
up to the lofty eminence on which stands the only synagogue of Cordova.
Almost breathless we reach the height. We express our surprise that
the Synagogue, visited twice daily, and thrice on the Sabbath day,
should have been located so inconveniently, to which our distinguished
friend Dunash ben Labrat replies: "Such is the custom in Israel, both
Solomon[7] and Ezra[8] have established the custom of building the
Synagogue on a lofty eminence, and the Talmud teaches: "The city whose
houses are higher than its houses of worship will be destroyed."[9]
[7] Proverbs, i:21.
[8] Ezra, ix:9.
[9] Talmud Babli Sabbath, 11 a.
Before entering, we pause awhile to cast our eyes about us. Were we
standing on Mount Moriah, of deathless memory, with the gorgeous temple
of Solomon before us, and with the sacred scenery of Jerusalem and her
environments about us, even such scenes could not have awed us more
than those which fascinate our heart and mind on the temple-mount of
Cordova, the brightest gem in the proud diadem of fair Andalusia.
At the foot of the mount glides the silvery Guadalquivir. The blushing
sun is sinking behind the azure hills, and houses and synagogues and
foliage and fountain and river, all are crimson tinted, while the
fleecy cloudlets, that float in his radiant tracks, are resplendent
with colors of purple and violet and gold and red. The evening star
sparkles in the rosy sky so benignly, as if it were the eye of God,
pleased at seeing His "chosen people" hasten to prostrate themselves
before His footstool. The golden glimmering vapors, that rise from
beneath the illumined horizon into infinite space, seem to vault over
the Synagogue, as if bestowing celestial Sabbath blessing over its
worshipers. All nature around us inspires to worship. The nightingales
have begun their evening hymns, and the air is loud with the soft
melting notes of the skylarks, who sing their sweet "Good Night" to the
sunken sun. Our soul, too, is filled with a yearning to commune with
God, and so we turn toward the synagogue.
Like the mezquita (mosque) its exterior facade is plain and
unnoteworthy. We enter the high and spacious vestibule, and our eye
is dazzled with all the magnificence, with the harmonious blending of
colors, with the costly, but chaste ornamentations. The cupola above
admits a free circulation of air, bringing the sweet fragrance of the
surrounding gardens. On the one side is heard the refreshing sound of
the flowing waters within the reservoirs for ablution, and on the other
side the soft splash from the fountain jets in the garden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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