Some of the passengers came on deck when the ship was off Folkestone,
and then they saw as fair a sight as the world has to offer--the
great white English cliffs topped with swelling tracts of green, with
here and there small bays with spaces of yellow sand between; houses
thickly grouped--so it seemed in beholding them from the sea--upon the
very margin of the cliff; slate-coloured hills paling far, far away
with visionary clouds upon them; and between the ship and the shore
many pleasure-boats and other craft, with white or ochre-coloured sails
and bright flags, lending spots of red and blue to the perspective of
the chalky cliff.
The pilot hugged the wind, rightly apprehensive that it might draw
ahead and cripple him for sea room; and the “Meteor” hereabouts was so
close to the land that those on board her could see the people walking
on shore--man’s majesty illustrated by dots of black upon the beach or
the heights. Overhead was a brilliantly blue sky, with small wool-white
clouds driving over it; the sea laughed in dimples and shivered the
white sunlight far and wide, so that every crest gleamed with a diamond
spark of its own; and away on the left, a pale faint cloud floating
upon the horizon, was the French coast.
The gay panorama swept by and new scenes opened--stretches of barren
coast with ungainly Coastguards’ huts for their sole decoration; spaces
of vivid green ruled off with lines of soft brown sand, and low black
rocks mirrored in the lake-like surface of the water under the lee;
whitewashed villages with wreaths of blue smoke curling from their
midst, and broad expanses of trees darkening the lightlier-coloured
landscape with delicate shadows. Sturdy vessels, the dray-horses of
the Channel, slow, deep laden, and wafting, many of them, the scent
of pine and other woods across the water, were overtaken and passed,
often amid the laughter of the crew on the “Meteor’s” forecastle, and
“chaff,” which even the grave Captain Steel, the “Meteor’s” skipper,
condescended to smile at. How picturesque these vessels! Here a Dutch
barque painted white, with square-faced men staring over the bulwarks;
a red-capped commander in sea boots and vast inexpressibles, and a
steersman who sometimes looked at the “Meteor” and sometimes at the
sails of his own ship, mixing duty and curiosity in a manner delightful
to behold; there a North-country brig with dirty patched sails and
black rigging, and a crew with smoked faces and a grinning head at the
galley door; sometimes a French smack with as many hands on board as
would man a Black Ball Liner, women among them in red petticoats and
handkerchiefs around their faces, some gutting fish, some mending nets,
some peeling potatoes, and all talking and gesticulating at once, but
suspending both their work and their talk to crowd to the smack’s side
and stare at the noble English vessel; and sometimes a little open boat
at anchor, with a man in her fishing with deep gravity, and paying no
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