Among the extraordinary attractions which makes Paris the show place of
Europe, the historic Palace of the Louvre possesses, curiously enough,
the least drawing power of any. Its popularity, from the tourist
viewpoint, at least, certainly falls far short of that enjoyed by the
Moulin Rouge. In other words, the Louvre, vast repository as it is of
the art wealth of the world, would seem to contain little attraction for
the multitude. The annual picture expositions in the Champs Elysees are
always crowded to suffocation, especially on free days, showing that the
common people are not wholly indifferent to art, but for some reason
which has never been satisfactorily explained, the celebrated museum,
the one-time residence of the Kings of France, with all its historic
memories, its priceless pictures and endless rooms filled with
sculptures and antiquities is treated with indifference and neglect. The
_blase_ Parisian takes no interest in it, because it is at his very
door. If he loves pictures, he prefers the annual _Salon_ where he
regales on the latest conceptions of the various modern schools. To
him, the Louvre belongs to the past, in common with the Sorbonne, the
Pantheon, Notre Dame, and other public monuments which constitute the
city's pride.
To-day the Louvre recruits its visitors chiefly from provincial folk and
foreigners. Cook's tourists, open-mouthed, heavy-booted, and breathless,
rush headlong through the rooms, their feet resounding noisily on the
highly polished parquet floors, slippery as ice and shining like
mirrors, rudely disturbing the almost religious silence of the deserted
galleries. Like a flock of stupid sheep driven by a hoarse-voiced
shepherd who acts as official guide, they stumble from room to room,
following the long, puzzling labyrinth of corridors, understanding
nothing of the stereotyped explanations shouted at them, merely glancing
at and quite indifferent to, the art wealth of the centuries which looks
disdainfully down upon them from every side. Attendants in uniform, a
cocked hat worn jauntily over their left ear, an expression of utter
weariness on their stolid, soldier-like faces, walk listlessly up and
down with measured tread, secretly despising these foreign barbarians
who display so little interest in the great masters, watching with
eagle eye that one of the vandals does not stick his umbrella through a
priceless Rembrandt or Correggio.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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