Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and Education — John Shaqi
Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and EducationAllies, T. W. (Thomas William)
Religion
Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and Education
Allies, T. W. (Thomas William)
France -- Church history -- 19th century; Italy -- Church history -- 19th century
_Rouen, June 28. Saturday._--The church of Caudebec is of great
beauty, of the 15th century, covered in every part with rich
sculpture, especially the western façade, which the Calvinists greatly
injured. I went over every part of it with the curé, and up the tower,
which is terminated by a curious flêche, something like Strasburgh,
formed into crowns, marvellously rich. The height about 180 feet. The
view from the top is very striking. The great defect of the interior
is that the east end has two windows instead of three, or one,
at the apse; the nave is very narrow. There was over the jubé, now
removed, a rood with Adam at the bottom of it receiving the Blood in a
cup, representing the fallen humanity restored by our Lord. A north
and south aisle without transept. Caudebec is in a very pretty
situation, within the cleft of the hills, with the river flowing at
its feet; on each side rises the wooded amphitheatre formed by the
banks of the Seine: there is a plain on the other side of the river;
it might serve for the site of a great city. The church is equal to a
small cathedral.
The curé has a pleasant presbytère to the north; he treated us with
the greatest kindness. The government allows 1000 francs yearly to the
restoration of the church; so it goes on bit by bit. There is a
remarkable pendant in the Lady Chapel, said to be fourteen feet long:
the curé assured me that he had ascertained it was not supported by
anything. There is in the chapel to the south a sepulchre with
exceedingly rich canopy, and a gigantic figure of Christ, "by which a
woman seemed to be praying with great devotion. I can fancy it a great
help to meditation."--_M._
We set out in an indifferent cabriolet for Rouen by Jumiêges, and St.
Georges de Boscherville; a fine road in parts. Jumiêges is a mournful
ruin, the nave with its western towers and the arch to the east
standing still; the latter of gigantic proportions, the arch being at
least eighty feet high, is grievously cracked, and may fall any day.
To the east of this little remains; it has been almost entirely
carried away, being the most beautiful part of the church, of early or
decorated character. To the south are the walls of an elegant
decorated chapel of St. Peter; the ruins are covered with brushwood or
trees, the arches daily threatening to fall. The garden has a very
fine view of the high banks of the Seine; there is a pleasant
wilderness. M. Caumont has made himself a very picturesque residence
of the old gateway and adjoining buildings. The western façade, with
its two towers of equal height and nearly similar form, is very simple
but grand. I mounted rather more than 200 steps to the top of the
northern: unluckily it had been raining, and there was no sun. It
commands the high banks of the Seine for a considerable distance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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