Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and EducationAllies, T. W. (Thomas William)
Religion
Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847: Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and Education
Allies, T. W. (Thomas William)
France -- Church history -- 19th century; Italy -- Church history -- 19th century
I left Venice yesterday morning, on my way home, alone, I am sorry to
say, for my two companions proceed to Bologna and Florence, and will
not be back in England till the end of September. It seems to me quite
a different thing now I have to go by myself; and the only comforting
thought is, that every step brings me nearer home. I am not likely to
lose much time on the road, and I hope to be with you on the day I
mentioned in my last; viz., Tuesday, the 26th.--I meant to have
written to you again from Venice, but our days went swiftly there, and
when we returned in the evening I was too much tired for the exertion.
Venice will remain as a strange and beautiful dream in my remembrance.
After all that one had heard it required sight to realise a city
rising out of the water on all sides, whose streets are canals,
whose doors open by flights of stairs on the water, whose carriages
are gondolas, and the most agreeable kind of carriage I ever was in;
for one reclines in them most lazily, like lotos eaters, and sees
palace and church, and all sorts of strange-looking heterogeneous
buildings sweep gently by, in a sort of sleep; while every now and
then comes a bit of semi-eastern architecture, rich ogee windows, and
arcades which perfectly delighted me, and quite as often we wound
through narrow, dirty, motionless canals, that seemed just suited to a
purpose they no doubt often served,--the drowning troublesome bodies.
But one sight we saw which you would have thoroughly entered into. On
Sunday afternoon, as we got into a gondola, the gondolier informed us
that he could not take us at the accustomed fare that evening, from
six to eight, for it was his especial harvest time, that all the world
went to the music on the Grand Canal. Accordingly, after looking for
some time at the Euganean hills and Friuli mountains, which are a
glorious sight to the north of Venice, we bade him take us to meet the
music on the Grand Canal. This is about 200 feet wide, winds most
beautifully through the city, having the Rialto bridge about the
middle, and is bordered by the finest palaces. We soon met the
Archduke's gondola, and behind it a great crowd of others covering the
whole breadth of the canal, shouldering and elbowing each other,
the gondoliers shouting, watching every one else's gondola as well as
their own, applauding or blaming, as might be. Each boat has one man
on a little covered deck near the stern, where he balances himself
admirably, and mainly directs the boat, serving both as oar and
rudder, and another not quite so near to the prow. In the middle
ladies recline on cushions, and no Hyde Park carriage serves to set
off beauty and fashion so well as those wicked barks of Venice, which
have screened so many tricks both of man and woman, for so many
hundred years. On this occasion, however, the part of the boat which
serves for shelter, coolness, or concealment, as it may be,--that is,
a sort of cabin, covered with crape, is taken away, and the cushions
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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