Journal of a cruise of the United States schooner Dolphin, among the islands of the Pacific Ocean; and a visit to the Mulgrave Islands, in pursuit of the mutineers of the whaleship GlobePaulding, Hiram
History
Journal of a cruise of the United States schooner Dolphin, among the islands of the Pacific Ocean; and a visit to the Mulgrave Islands, in pursuit of the mutineers of the whaleship Globe
Paulding, Hiram
Oceania -- Description and travel
It was late in the evening when we got underway, at the Mulgraves,
for the last time. We had surveyed all that part of the islands
intervening between our first anchorage and the Globe's landing, and
now steered to the eastward by the bearings we had previously taken.
Squalls of wind and heavy rain coming on, we soon lost sight of the
land. The loud roaring of the surf, off the extreme north-eastern
point, as well as the heavy swell that set in immediately afterwards,
apprised us that we had cleared the group. The land was in sight
from the mast-head, in the morning, when we ran down for the eastern
end of the island, where we had first anchored, and at a convenient
distance run along upon the weather side, taking hearings at the end
of every base of three or four miles. Near the centre of the
windward part of the group we passed a wide opening into the inland
sea, not far from which was a reef of considerable extent, where a
very high surf was breaking. Within a short distance of the reef, we
saw the bottom plainly in ten fathoms water. There was no place on
the weather side of the islands, where it was possible to land with
any degree of safety. After passing the extreme northern point we
steered off, with the trending of the land W. by S.; and, at
sun-down, were up with the island, from whence I had taken Lay,
having sailed nearly round the group. Here we hove to for the night.
The group of Mulgrave Islands, as they are called, form a circular
chain of narrow strips of land, which are no where more than half a
mile wide, inclosing within the circle an inland sea, one hundred and
forty miles in circumference, filled with shoals and reefs of coral.
It is every where bounded on the sea-side, by a bank of coral, that
protects it from the violence of the ocean. This bank generally
extends but a short distance from the shore, when it goes off into
unfathomable water. At the chief's islet, where we buried the
surgeon, it was wider than at any other place about the group, being
upwards of a cable's length, which, for a low coral island, may be
considered good anchorage. The whole circle is broken alternately
into clumps, a few feet above the water, of level and low coral
reefs, some of which are above high-water mark, and some sufficiently
low to afford a passage for boats. The clumps vary in length, but
none of them are more than two miles long, without an interruption of
a dry or drowned reef. They are covered with a thick growth of
bushes, and trees of small size, except where the cocoa-nut and
bread-fruit trees rear their tall heads, and wide-spreading branches.
Wherever these grow, the underwood disappears, and the place has the
appearance of an old forest, cleared for a pleasure ground, where a
few trees have been left standing, for the advantage of their shade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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