[Footnote 4: The spelling here adopted is that used by M. Beaumier in his sketch-map of the route from Mogador to Marocco, but it is extremely difficult to fix the sounds expressing many of the native names. Sometimes this sounded to our ears as Oued enfisk, sometimes as Oued enfist; the latter, it will be remarked, is merely a slight anagram of the name Oued Tensift, belonging to the main river flowing westward on the north side of the city of Marocco.] CHAPTER VI. Approach to the City of Marocco — Pleasant encounter — Halt in an olive garden — Interior of the city — Difficulty as to lodging — Governor unfriendly — Camp in the great square — Negotiations with the Viceroy — Successful result — Palace of Ben Dreis — Diplomatic difficulties — Gardens of Marocco — Interview with El Graoui. After vainly waiting nearly two hours for the return of our soldier, we determined to push on towards the city of Marocco, though somewhat uncertain what the character of our reception might be. This was not merely a matter affecting our personal comfort during our short stay, but was certain to have an important effect on the success of our subsequent journey, and it was a most fortunate circumstance that Hooker’s long experience in contending with the jealousies and suspicions of the native authorities in Nepal and the border States of North-eastern India, and his thorough knowledge of the character of people, who, though far removed, very much resemble the Moors in their ideas and maxims of policy, had prepared him to deal with them successfully. We had gained the first essential condition for exploring the unknown valleys of the Great Atlas, by obtaining the consent of the Sultan; but it was impossible to guess the precise tenor of the orders forwarded by him to the local authorities, and, whatever these might be, the ultimate result would largely depend on the good or ill faith of the latter in carrying them into effect. The person whose favourable dispositions it was chiefly important to secure was El Graoui, who exercises under the Sultan a wide authority as Governor of nearly all the tribes of the Great Atlas that recognise the imperial authority, extending over a considerable portion of the country at the foot of the mountains inhabited by a Shelluh population. El Graoui, as we knew, lived in the city of Marocco, but outside his own jurisdiction. The Governor of the city and its immediate neighbourhood was Ben Daoud, a man notorious for his dislike to strangers and especially to Christians, and it was to him that we had to look for our reception, on our arrival.