From whatever side it be approached the city of Marocco presents
an imposing appearance. The western side presented an outline
about a mile and a half in length. Massive walls, some thirty feet
in height, with square towers at intervals of about 120 yards,
completely enclose it, and on two sides at least it is girdled by a
wide belt of gardens in which the date-palm, olive, and fig are the
most conspicuous trees. Here, as elsewhere, the date-palm flourishes
in a sandy soil where the roots plunge into a more compact subsoil
kept moist by infiltration. On the north-west side the palm groves,
which we passed on our left, are so close and continuous as to give
the effect of a forest, while along our route they alternated with
other cultivated trees. The effect of the scene as we approached was
peculiar and new. The luxuriance of the vegetation that at intervals
screened from view the great range of the Atlas, the majestic old
olive trees, the rough trunks of the tall palms on which stood
many a motionless chameleon; the walls and towers of the great
city seen at intervals as we wound among the gardens and groves,
combined to form a striking and highly picturesque scene. It was
near 4 o’clock when, as we were drawing near the walls, we were
startled by the sudden appearance of a party of well-mounted Moors
in flowing _haïks_, whose horses leaped in succession through a
gap in an adjoining fence and advanced to meet us. Our surprise was
increased when the foremost of the party greeted us in English with a
friendly welcome. This gentleman, whose outward appearance was quite
undistinguishable from that of his companions, was Mr. Hunot, brother
of the British Vice-Consul at Saffi, and representative at Marocco,
of the house of Messrs. Perry & Co., of Liverpool. His companions,
grave and courteous-looking Moors of considerable local influence,
were Sidi Mohammed Hassanowe [1] and Sidi Boubikir, with two or
three more of less note. We were invited into an adjoining garden,
where carpets were spread under large olive trees, and a refection
in the Moorish style, consisting of green tea, cakes of wheaten
flour and kabobs, was speedily prepared.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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