Mr. Hunot had spent several months in the city, and in the absence of M. Lambert, a French merchant, who has lived there for many years, was the only European resident. Although his thorough familiarity with the language, customs, and ideas of the natives made his position less difficult, he found it practically so irksome that he was then on the point of returning to Saffi, his ordinary residence; and we owe it to his kind desire to assist us during this critical period of our journey that he postponed his departure for a day. The time passed very pleasantly, and we listened with satisfaction to the opinion expressed by our hosts that no obstacles would be interposed to our intended journey in the Atlas; when the first sign of rocks ahead was disclosed on the return of the messenger despatched to ascertain what sort of lodging had been prepared for us. When the messenger acknowledged that a very small house with but two rooms had been provided, it became clear that, so far as the city authorities were concerned, there was no disposition to show us much courtesy. Hooker at once sent back a message to the Governor, that we should require a much larger house, or else an enclosed garden in which to pitch our tents. After about half-an-hour’s delay, the messenger again appeared, saying that a much larger house, with four rooms, and more adjoining if required, was ready to receive us. Hereupon we resolved to enter the city, and in company with our new friends, whose ample _haïks_ picturesquely draped must have contrasted favourably with the ugly _jellabias_ that we wore over our European dress, we defiled in a long cavalcade, followed by the mules, camels, and donkeys of our train, through the gardens that on this side approach close to the city walls. Before the gate we found an officer, evidently of inferior position, with some ten or twelve ragged fellows on foot, armed with rusty matchlocks, posted there to receive us, and to conduct us to our quarters; and with this sorry escort, we made our entry into Marocco. It is impossible by any language to convey the sense of utter disappointment and disgust which overpowered us on our first arrival; and though these feelings soon became subordinate to others connected with our personal position, they are those which predominate in our subsequent recollections.