El Graoui, with apparent frankness and good-humour, said that he
should have much pleasure in carrying into effect the intentions
of the Sultan in our regard, and that we should have full liberty
to go where we pleased in the portions of the Great Atlas where
the authority of the Sultan is recognised, orders being given
that the local authorities should provide food for us and our
followers. This brought us at once to a question of pressing
importance. Up to this moment we had no notion as to the limits that
might be set to our journey by the Marocco authorities, though too
well aware that Hooker’s engagements in England would not under
any circumstances allow us to carry our explorations very far. In
answer to our inquiries, we were told that we were free to travel on
the northern slope of the mountains that send their waters to the
plain of Marocco. The names of various districts were mentioned,
several of which were strange to our ears, and not to be found on
any map; but we retained those of Glaoui, Ourika, and Reraya, the
latter two being afterwards familiar to us. Further than this, we
were informed that we might travel eastward through the provinces
of Demenet and Ntifa, both apparently high mountain regions,
whose waters run northward to the Oum-er-bia. We were emphatically
told that we must not attempt to cross the chain southward in the
direction of the Sous valley, and we gave a distinct promise to
abstain from doing so. The actual decision as to our future route
was far too important a matter to be disposed of on the spot by
men so imperfectly prepared as we necessarily were, and it was
arranged that Hooker should, in the course of the next day or two,
acquaint El Graoui with the route which we might adopt.
The main point being thus settled, some further conversation ensued
as to the arrangements for our journey. El Graoui informed us that he
would send an escort of five soldiers under the command of a Kaïd,
and further suggested that the escort that had already accompanied
us from Mogador should remain with us throughout the journey. As it
seemed desirable to humour the great man’s fancies, the latter
arrangement was at once agreed to, and in the sequel we found it
decidedly advantageous. The interview was brought to a close by
Hooker presenting to El Graoui a pair of excellent, though not
showy, rifled pistols, which he had brought from England under the
impression that they might be useful for personal defence. We had an
unnecessarily large store of articles intended for presents—silver
watches, musical boxes, opera glasses, cutlery, and the like; but,
on reviewing our stores, Mr. Hunot decided that such objects would
be thought too paltry for a man of El Graoui’s importance, and
that serviceable fire-arms would be far better suited to his taste.
FOOTNOTES:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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