[Footnote 1: The designation _Sidi_, equivalent to the Italian Signore, given to persons of consideration, forms no part of the name. In conversation it is abbreviated to _Si_.] CHAPTER VII. Choice of a route in the Atlas — Difficulty of procuring information — Hills near the city — Panorama of the Great Atlas — Probable height of the range — Wild birds of Marocco — Condition of the Jews — Departure from the city — Farewell interview with El Graoui — District of Mesfioua — Interview with the Kaïd — Approach to the Great Atlas — Aspect of the vegetation — Castle of Tasseremout — Washington’s visit — Jewish suppliants — Great boulder mounds — Ourika valley — Peculiarities of Moorish character — Rapacity of our escort. On returning from our interview with El Graoui, we felt that our most urgent want was reliable information about the districts mentioned by him as within the possible range of our expedition. Hooker had already ordered Abraham to make inquiry for some one who had actually travelled eastward from the city into the mountain country; but such a person was by no means so easily found as a stranger might suppose. The few Moors who ever go into the interior are cut off from communication with the natives by ignorance of the language; and, besides this, the Moor is usually too incurious and intellectually sluggish to carry away information about anything not directly concerning his own business or pleasure. Had our stay in Marocco been prolonged, we might perhaps have been able to collect some details as to the interior provinces from natives of the mountain valleys who must from time to time resort to the city; but it is very doubtful whether a Christian stranger could obtain anything reliable in this way. People constantly forget how wide the gap is that separates the mind of a modern European from that of the inhabitant of a barbarous country, where the conditions of society are such that apprehension of danger to life and property becomes the predominant feeling. The notion that a man can care to acquire knowledge of any kind for its own sake is not for a moment admitted, and suspicion is necessarily the first feeling aroused by any inquiry, however apparently harmless. Bearing this in mind, we often felt astonishment at the share of success that has been attained by some geographers, and especially by Captain Beaudouin, the author of the French War Office map of Marocco. It is true that some large portions of that map are quite unreliable, and that it contains many grave errors as to the direction of the mountain ranges and valleys; but, considering that the greater part of it was compiled by the comparison of itineraries and descriptions furnished by a large number of separate native informants, the wonderful thing is that in many districts it should approach so near to accuracy as it does; and it undoubtedly shows a very remarkable degree of care,