Nature, however, has made Tangier the port of North Marocco, and, in spite of human perversity, it is a place of some importance. Ready access to the fertile provinces lying between the Straits of Gibraltar and Fez has made it the centre of a considerable trade in hides and grain, which go to France and England, to say nothing of cattle and other supplies for the garrison of Gibraltar. Its nearness to Europe has made it the residence of the representatives of the principal civilised Powers, and its admirable climate has attracted invalids from Gibraltar and elsewhere, in spite of such drawbacks as dirt, bad smells, and the utter absence of roads. On our arrival, we were most kindly received by Sir John Drummond Hay, to whose intimate knowledge of the country and justly acquired influence with the Moorish Court we are largely indebted for whatever success attended our journey. We learned from him that the Sultan had issued orders to the Governor of the Atlas provinces to allow Hooker to visit the range of the Great Atlas south of the city of Marocco, and to take every precaution for his comfort and safety; but he added that, although there was no reason to doubt the Sultan’s good faith, every artifice would be used to defeat the object, and that it would not be prudent to start for the south without an autograph letter from the Sultan himself, for which he had already made application. The Court was at this time at Fez—several days’ journey from Tangier; and, as business moves at a slow pace in this country, it was probable that we might have to wait some time for the necessary document. We therefore at once decided on devoting the interval to excursions in the neighbourhood of Tangier and Tetuan. The latter city lies at no great distance from the lofty peaks of the _Beni Hassan_, probably the highest part of the north-western range of the Lesser Atlas, best known as the Riff Mountains. There could be no doubt as to the botanical interest attaching to a visit to that range, the higher region of which is entirely unknown to naturalists, and we were very desirous to make an attempt in that direction. After full consideration, however, Sir J. D. Hay felt it necessary to object to our project, as involving undue risk. The Riff mountaineers enjoy a virtual independence, merely paying tribute to the Sultan. They are fierce and fanatical; and the presence of a Christian on the highest mountain, which is rendered sacred by a famous _marabout_—tomb of a Mohammedan saint—would be regarded as a profanation. Meantime, we were led to hope that we should be able to ascend the mountains nearer to Tetuan, and there was no difficulty whatever about excursions in the neighbourhood of Tangier.