With regard to the position of the Jews, there can be no doubt
that the benevolent efforts of Sir Moses Montefiore, backed up
by the representatives of England and other civilised States, have
produced some permanent effect. In the coast towns, under the eyes of
European consular agents, they seem to enjoy security from violence,
and even from insult. In the city of Marocco, where they inhabit
a separate quarter, walled in and accessible only by two gates,
they are safe so long as they keep within those limits; but they
are still forced to walk barefoot when they pass into the city,
and are exposed to derision and insult against which they dare not
protest. In the remoter parts of the territory, where their scattered
communities are found here and there, their condition is apparently
still worse, and they are frequently subjected to brutal ill-usage;
but even there their superior intelligence and skill in industrial
crafts, for which the Moor is incompetent, secures them a certain
degree of consideration.[2]
We this day made acquaintance with Kaïd el Hasbi, the captain of the
escort of five men, who, along with our Mogador guard, was to travel
with us through the Atlas. Nature had given him a disagreeable
countenance with a forbidding expression, and our subsequent
experience fully confirmed the first unfavourable impression.
It had been arranged that our first day’s journey from Marocco
was to be a short one, and accordingly our final start on Monday,
May 8, was delayed until 8 A.M. Our large tent, too heavy for mules,
had been sent back to Mogador; but, nevertheless, our baggage formed
a very sufficient load for nine mules. Not counting our interpreter
and Hooker’s European attendant, we had nine followers engaged
in various capacities, besides twelve men in charge of the hired
animals, making up altogether, with the escort, who numbered
nine privates and two officers, a party of thirty-seven men and
thirty-three horses and mules. We wound slowly through the filthy
lanes of the Jews’ quarter, and went out by the south-east gate of
the city, having on our right the high wall that encloses the vast
gardens attached to the Sultan’s residence. Having entered the
city through groves of the date-palm, the foliage of which is too
tough for the teeth of the locust, we had scarcely noticed these
pernicious creatures on that occasion; but in the well-irrigated
tracts south and west of the city which are devoted to tillage
they had this year been more than usually destructive. It is in
their young condition, while still active on the wing, that their
voracity is greatest; but in that stage it is practically impossible
to contend with them. When they have attained their full growth they
become unwieldy, and at length nearly torpid; and it is then that
the natives endeavour to exterminate them, with a view to prevent
the females from depositing their countless eggs and leaving to
the district a legacy of future devastation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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