Nothing of its kind can surpass the beauty of the view. The steep
slope below is planted with oranges and pomegranates—the first
laden with golden fruit, the second with crimson flowers—broken
here and there by palms, figs, olives, and carob trees, standing
against a background of deep blue water, dancing in the gentle
westerly breeze. On our left the steep slope of the mountain,
rising over against the blue outline of Cape Trafalgar, forms
the portal through which the Atlantic pours its current into the
Mediterranean. Along the opposite shore of Spain every undulation,
from the coast to the distant purple sierra, is plainly seen. The
little town of Conil and the very houses of Tarifa are discernible
with the naked eye, and visitors are enabled through a glass
to watch the people as they come and go, and that extraordinary
phenomenon for Southern Spain, the diligence, that of late years
has plied between Algeciras and Cadiz. Turning to the right, the
eye reaches the entrance to the Mediterranean, between the rock
of Gibraltar and the loftier summit of Ape’s Hill; and in clear
weather the range of the Serrania de Ronda, stretching towards
Malaga, is seen on one side, while on the other the snowy peak of
the Beni Hassan, south of Tetuan, closes the view. To give variety,
if that were wanting, there is the ceaseless passage of shipping
through this greatest of maritime highways, in a double stream of
vessels, of every size and every nation, from the great Peninsular
and Oriental steamer to the Moorish felucca. It is an example of
the readiness with which sound travels over an unbroken surface,
that the morning and evening gun at Gibraltar, nearly forty miles
distant, are usually heard at this spot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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