Meanwhile, the afternoon was wearing away; we did not clearly
know how we were to return to our camp after dark, but remembered
distinctly one awkward place—the fording of the torrent—where
some daylight seemed indispensable. We hurried back, our portfolios
and tin boxes fully charged with spoil, and found the horses
and mules awaiting us on the flat ground below Arround. A man
can usually travel over rough mountain tracks as fast as a mule;
but if the man be a botanist, and the track lies among new and
rare plants, it is quite certain that he will not do so; and when
haste is a matter of real importance, it is necessary to submit to
the restraint of riding. Hurried as we were, it was necessary to
dismount and make a short halt on our return to Arround. The laws
of Bereber hospitality required that the villagers should present
a _mona_, and that we should at least make a show of partaking of
it. There was a large dish of barley porridge, with a lake of oil
in a crater-like hollow in the centre, and another of buttermilk,
in which were some of last year’s walnuts, as well as other
unexpected delicacies. This entertainment was briefly despatched
by our followers, and we proceeded down the steep track beside the
moraine, and again reached Adjersiman. Here, to our vexation, another
halt was called, and another slight refection was presented. Our
impatience was so far successful, that the delay was limited to a
very few minutes. We should, perhaps, have displayed more interest
in these specimens of native cookery, if we had been acquainted with
the curious passages in which Leo Africanus[1] minutely describes
the dietary of the Atlas mountaineers, and the mode of preparing
the identical dishes that were here presented to us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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