Once more we were in the saddle, and the whole party felt that no
more delay was permitted. To ride down the steep, slippery bed of
the watercourse below the village seemed even a more trying affair
than the ascent; but our companions seemed to take it as a matter
of course, and our sturdy beasts accomplished the task bravely,
though not without hard struggling, that would have strained the
muscles of animals less strong and hardy. As always happens when
the ground is looked at in the reverse direction, we espied, on
retracing our track, several plants not before noticed, one or two
of them certainly new. No botanist can resist such a temptation,
even though he were flying for his life; and two or three times we
dismounted to snatch a specimen or two, but were soon recalled to
the necessity for pushing on. For the first time since we landed
in Marocco, the evening sky was overcast with heavy dark clouds,
and the last of twilight was fading fast when we reached the ford
over the torrent. The banks are here overarched by poplars and
other tall trees, and in the dim light the rapid stream seemed
fiercer, and its roar more menacing, than when we crossed it in
the morning. The passage was achieved; but not without a good deal
of excitement among our followers, when one of the soldier’s
horses slipped into a hole, and only after violent plunging and
loud shouting of the natives, scrambled to the farther bank.
Without more trouble we ascended the slope on the western side
of the valley, and reached the olive grove, to which we had given
little attention when we passed through it in the morning. This now
unexpectedly presented the most difficult, and even dangerous, stage
of our excursion. Such faint glimmering of light as remained up to
this disappeared under the trees, and gave place to absolute pitch
darkness. The rough spreading boughs, all beset with the ragged,
leafless, half-dead branchlets characteristic of old olive trees,
stretched out on every side, at a height of four or five feet from
the ground. There was no regular beaten track through the grove,
but by day it was easy for man and horse to thread a way among the
trees. The case was now very different. Our keen-sighted Shelluh
followers were as much at a loss as we were. One or two men on
foot went first, and we then followed, the train being brought up
by the soldiers of our escort. For a while, by moving slowly and
cautiously, nothing serious happened. The beasts seemed to understand
the difficulty of the case, and as one or another of us rode against
a branch, with head bent down to lessen the risk of mischief, they
stopped at once, and even backed a step or two. Before long the
cavalcade was separated by long gaps. A loud cry of pain, followed
by the vociferations of the natives, brought the foremost to a full
stop, and after a while we were once more near together. It was not
altogether reassuring to be told by Ambak, when we asked the cause
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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