So intent had we been on the surrounding vegetation, that we had
scarcely cast a glance at the sky overhead. This had continually
assumed a more and more gloomy aspect; and at length, after due
notice and preparation, the long-expected rain began, not in a
heavy downpour such as often occurs in southern countries, but in
that fine steady drizzle which is known to those whom the fates
have led to the northern parts of our island as a Scotch mist,
hateful to the lover of the picturesque and still more hateful
to the botanist. On this occasion, however, it seemed to us no
unmixed evil, as it furthered the execution of a stratagem that
was already in our minds. Our followers were scantily clad, and
felt more than we did the chilly temperature of the day, and of
course the rain increased their discomfort. They were, therefore,
in the right frame of mind to accept at once the suggestion that
they should light a fire within the hut, therein following the
example of preceding wayfarers. After muttering a few prayers,
they proceeded to gather some damp sticks, and presently were busy
in the attempt to make a fire out of them. Having continued for a
few minutes to loiter about, still gathering plants near the hut,
until the men appeared to be fully engrossed in their occupation,
we started together to ascend the track leading to the summit ridge
of the Atlas.
We had reached the Saint’s tomb about 9 A.M., and found its height
above the sea-level to be 7,852 feet (2,393·2 m.). Little more than
half-an-hour had since elapsed, so that, if no unexpected difficulty
occurred, there was ample time to reach the summit of the pass which,
as we thought, could scarcely be 3,000 feet above us. A number of
interesting plants soon rewarded our adventure, and delayed us for
a while on the rocky banks of the torrent near the bottom of the
ravine, but out of view of the Saint’s tomb. On joining the track,
we found it a well-made mountain path, constructed with some skill,
advantage being taken of the nature of the ground to make zigzags,
evidently intended for the passage of beasts of burthen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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