We had ascended several hundred feet, and were looking about
for plants among rocks to the left of the path, when some faint
sound made us look up, and we descried, amid the rain and mist,
a party of men and laden mules descending towards us down the
steep ravine. There was some obvious awkwardness in the impending
encounter of three Englishmen, utterly ignorant of the native tongue,
with a set of wild mountaineers of the Atlas, in a spot where no
stranger had ever before been seen. In such cases, the less time
that is left for deliberation the better. Suspicion or greed may
prompt an attack where time is left for consultation; but if people
are suddenly confronted by peaceable strangers, they will rarely,
unless robbers by profession, think of molesting them. The shape of
the ground happened to favour this obvious bit of policy, and some
projecting rocks concealed the approaching train until we suddenly
confronted them at a turn of the path, and passed within a few yards,
with something approaching to a grave salute. The mules appeared to
be laden with goat-skins, along with other articles that we could
not distinguish. Whether these were people from the northern side of
the chain returning from a trading expedition in the Sous country,
or men of Sous carrying goods to the capital, we never certainly
ascertained; but, from noticing pieces of orange-peel on the track,
we inferred that they must have descended rather low in the Sous
valley; while it is certain that people going from the lower part
of that valley to the city of Marocco would not have followed this
circuitous and difficult track, unless urged by special reasons.
A little farther on we found, on ledges of rock near the
track, several of the most interesting plants seen during the
day. Thenceforward all botanising became difficult. The rain turned
to sleet, and before long to snow; and, though the roughness of
the ground still enabled us to discern the more conspicuous plants,
it was almost impossible to secure satisfactory specimens.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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