The Moorish government is marked by two fatal defects, from which
it seems unlikely to free itself. That religious fanaticism should
have taken deep root in a country long exposed to the attacks of not
less fanatical enemies was quite inevitable; but for two centuries
there has been peace with Portugal, and the brief Spanish war in
1861 does not seem to have much altered the state of feeling as to
Europeans; yet the hatred to Christians as such seems to be quite
as strong among the Moors at this day as at any former period, and
while it exists must continue to be a serious barrier to industrial
progress. Among the Shelluhs fanaticism has evidently no deep hold
on the people. Some of the chiefs may share, or affect to share,
in what they doubtless consider the tone of good society among the
rulers of the country; but our experience of the people agrees with
that of Jackson, who lived for some time near Agadir, and found
there a positive desire among the people of all classes that he
should establish himself permanently among them.
More serious even than fanaticism, as an obstacle to good government,
is the seeming incapacity of the Moor to estimate any but immediate
results, or to make any effort of which the good effect will not be
very speedily visible. To prove to a Sultan of Marocco that such a
public work or other improvement would double his revenue at the end
of twenty or thirty years would be sheer waste of breath. It would
never occur to a Moor that a benefit so distant, however great,
was worth the slightest present exertion. Hence the utter neglect
of public works, of mineral wealth, and of the forests which should
be an abundant source of national wealth.
We were somewhat surprised to find among the Aït Mesan people, a
decided taste for ornament, of which no trace is perceptible among
the Arabs of the low country. We noticed that the lintels of the
doors at Arround were decorated with rude carving in geometrical
patterns, diamonds, circles, and triangles. Saddlecloths had similar
chequered patterns in black and white, reminding Hooker of fabrics
made by the Lepchas in Sikkim.
We had scarcely started to descend the valley when it began to
sleet. As soon as we reached the village below, this turned to rain,
which continued with little intermission throughout the day. The
halt for luncheon offered little attraction to any of the party,
and was curtailed as much as possible. It is a proof of the variety
of the vegetation, that although we had already twice passed through
the valley, and made considerable collections, we noticed on this
occasion two or three plants growing close to the path which none
of us had before seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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