A little anxiety was felt as to the ford in the river; and in truth
it was a piece of good fortune that the weather had been so cold,
and that snow instead of rain had fallen on the mountains. A slight
rise of the stream must make the ford impassable. We might have
made our way on foot along the E. side of the valley, though this
appears pathless below the ford, and discovered some way for passing
the stream lower down; but our baggage and precious collections
could scarcely have followed that way, and practically we should
have been prisoners for several days. As it was, the water at the
ford was no higher than usual; the increased supply from the lower
slopes was doubtless compensated by the cutting off of the drainage
of the upper region, now deeply covered with snow.
Soon after crossing the stream, we were met by Abraham, dressed in
his best, who in this valley assumed quite a lofty air. He informed
us, with a tone of great elation, that the country people took him
for a sherreeff, and, had come out to ask a Jew for his blessing. The
path was in places very slippery, and it was impossible to travel
fast, and so it happened that the daylight was beginning to fade when
we returned to our camp. This displayed a doleful spectacle. After
more than twenty-four hours’ rain the piece of flat ground which we
had selected was turned into a large pool of slippery mud. Hooker’s
tent had been left standing; but the wet had worked its way inside,
and there was scarcely a dry spot to be found, while there was no
choice but to pitch the smaller tents in the midst of the general
sludge. In such a case the best plan is to make a floor of branches
and leafy twigs, and the carob trees that grew close at hand were
at once requisitioned for the purpose. The Alpine Club tent, though
the canvas was wet, when set over this rough flooring, afforded
very tolerable shelter and freedom from the all-pervading mud.
The advantages of this tent were further proved during the
night. When pitched in open ground it depends, like every other
tent, on such support as tent pegs can give; but when trees are
at hand the supporting rope can be rigged fore and aft in such a
way as to defy any storm to upset it. During the night a furious
gale arose, as it seemed, quite suddenly, accompanied by torrents
of rain; the tent pegs were drawn out of the muddy soil; and twice
Hooker’s tent fell bodily to the ground, luckily with no other
bad result than to envelop the sleeper in the clammy folds of the
wet canvas. The soldiers contrived to keep their tent standing;
but those who mounted guard, and the natives sent by the sheik for
the same duty, must have passed a miserable night. The excitement
caused by the falling of the tent, when the whole camp turned out
with loud outcries, must have been welcome as a relief from the
dreariness of the time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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