It appeared that our refusal was felt by the Kaïd as a slight;
so, by way of offering an irresistible attraction, a cow was led
out and slaughtered on the spot, close to the _kasbah_. Fresh beef
is a delicacy rarely found in Marocco; but even this failed to
move us. Our greedy soldiers were furious at being baulked of the
opportunity for feasting and idling, which they evidently considered
the main object of their mission, and our departure from Gurgouri was
accompanied by the surly faces and muttered grumblings of our escort.
It was only on the following day that, owing to the continuing
feud between the two men, we learned, through our Mogador captain,
that Kaïd el Hasbi had here once more been scheming to frustrate
the objects of our journey. In announcing our arrival, he at once
prejudiced the Governor of Gurgouri against the intrusive Christians,
who had come to visit his district, and directly advised him not to
let us enter the mountain valleys. It is likely that this conduct
was as much prompted by a keen recollection of the discomfort of his
recent five days’ stay in the Aït Mesan valley, and the poorer
fare there available, as by mere fanatic dislike to Christians and
strangers; but we all know how readily fanaticism allies itself
with the baser passions of human nature, and neither were wanting
in Kaïd el Hasbi. In any case, it was only natural that a local
Governor should take his cue from the man who seemed to be the
personal representative of the authorities in Marocco.
If our soldiers were disappointed at missing a feast, we were in no
better humour at being foiled in what appeared a hopeful project. We
silently rode for nearly an hour amidst well-cultivated fields and
gardens before we finally reached the banks of the Oued Nfys, at
a village called Nurzam. The channel was some 300 yards in width,
cut out from the soft limestone strata that rose on either side
in steep banks about thirty feet high; while, in spite of the
recent rains, the stream was only about twenty yards in width,
and everywhere shallow. The day was so far advanced that we could
not linger here—a fact the more to be regretted as we found,
on the dry gravelly bed of the stream, several plants not before
seen during our journey. Among these were _Salvia ægyptiaca_,
and a curious _Antirrhinum_, nearly allied to, but different from,
the Algerian _A. ramosissimum_.
On the west side of the Oued Nfys, the ground rises gradually,
but not nearly to so high a level as the plateau of Sektana. The
underlying rock throughout the space between this and the next valley
descending from the Atlas appears to be covered with a thick red
earthy deposit, sometimes of the consistence of clay, sometimes of
a more friable character, doubtless formed at the expense of the
portion of the Atlas at the head of the valley of the Oued Nfys.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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