Mid-day had passed before we started from Sektana, the morning hours
having been employed in collecting and laying in paper a tolerably
large mass of specimens. Our course lay over the plateau, whose
undulations gradually subsided towards the Oued Nfys. At a distance
of some seven miles from our camp we reached the brow of a range of
low broken cliffs of white limestone, facing westward towards the
broad valley of that stream. They are at a considerable distance
from the present bed, but were doubtless formed by erosion at a
distant period when the level was much higher than it now is. Among
other plants, a variety of the wild caper (described as _Capparis
ægyptia_ by Lamarck) was here common, and was afterwards often seen
in similar stations as we travelled westward. The flowers-buds are
eaten raw by the natives, who call them _Pan_.
Below us, on the fertile tract extending for three or four miles from
the foot of the cliffs towards the Oued Nfys, stood the village of
Gurgouri, overlooked by two _kasbahs_ belonging to the Governor of
the district which we had now entered, also called Gurgouri. The
older fortress-like building, standing on a projecting rock, was
apparently uninhabited, and the Kaïd dwelt in a less imposing
structure close to the village.
Our present design was to approach the high summits of the Atlas
that we had viewed in the morning through one of the lateral
valleys of the Oued Nfys, whence, as it appeared, the ascent might
be effected without serious difficulty. The leaders of our escort
had ridden on before to announce our arrival, and, after a short
halt, we approached the village through a belt of gardens and olive
groves. No Governor appeared to meet us, but only a messenger with
some lame excuse for his non-appearance. It would seem that our
dissatisfaction at this want of attention was speedily reported, and
that the Kaïd’s second thoughts were different from his first,
for he presently appeared just at the entrance to his _kasbah_. He
was a tall, handsome man, courteous, but no way cordial in his
greeting. He invited us to stop at this place, offering at the
same time a suitable _mona_. It was necessary, however, to bring
the question as to our further progress to a speedy decision; and
when the proposal to ascend the neighbouring mountains was met by a
positive refusal, and an intimation that such an expedition might
be effected from Amsmiz, the adjoining district to the W. of the
Oued Nfys, Hooker at once decided to continue our journey, and to
refuse the proffered entertainment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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