the Spanish variety of _Berberis cretica_; and lower down, near the
base of the mountain, a fine white-flowered columbine, fully four
feet high, probably a variety of the common _Aquilegia vulgaris_,
widely spread throughout the mountain regions of Europe and Asia,
but not, as we believe, before found in the African continent. Ball,
who reached the rendezvous half an hour after Hooker, brought down
with him a curious little succulent plant, forming a new species
of the genus _Monanthes_, hitherto known only in the islands of the
Canary and Cape de Verde groups, along with three species of the lily
tribe, all of them found in Southern Europe, but not before seen in
Marocco. The tree was found to be the belloot oak (_Quercus Ballota_
of Desfontaines), a variety of the evergreen oak, which is spread
through North Africa and Spain, where the sweet acorns are commonly
roasted and eaten, as chestnuts are elsewhere. Many of the trees
are of great age and have thick trunks, and weather-beaten stunted
branches, and are apparently the remains of extensive forests that
once clothed the flanks of this part of the Atlas up to a height
of about 8,500 feet above the sea.
Hooker found the sheik in a state of thorough exasperation at our
success in defeating his orders, probably aggravated by the tedium
of waiting for our return. He discharged volleys of fierce abuse at
the guide who had failed to keep us within the prescribed limits,
but was not openly disrespectful in his manner towards the Christian
_hakim_ who had come to his country under the immediate shadow of
imperial protection. Foreseeing future trouble in returning through
the valley after dark, he was evidently much annoyed at the necessity
for awaiting Ball’s arrival. To calm his impatience, Hooker lent
him a field telescope, and the novel experience so much amused him
that his ill-humour appeared to vanish for the time. Uncivilised men
are like children, rarely remaining long under the same impression;
and even when seemingly quite possessed by some strong feeling,
are led away from it by the veriest trifle.
As required by the inevitable rule of hospitality, a _mona_ was
offered by the people of the adjoining hamlet in the shape of a dish
of _keskossou_, barely tasted by us, but speedily despatched by our
followers, and at 6.15 P.M. we started on horseback to return to
our night-quarters at Iminteli. The sun set before 7, and a brief
interval of twilight soon gave place to a dark, though star-lit,
night. In the open there was no difficulty in following the track
along the torrent; but at one place, in riding through a walnut
grove, we were reminded of our night-adventure in the Aït Mesan
valley. The thicker branches of the walnut do not, however, lie low,
as do those of the olive, nor are they beset with the stiff jagged
leafless branchlets that made the latter so dangerous in the dark.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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