The grove was traversed without trouble; but another unlooked-for experience was in store for us. We had complained in the morning of what seemed a roundabout way taken in descending from Iminteli to the bottom of the valley; and perhaps the sheik now took a malicious pleasure in showing us the advantages of a short cut. Leading the way, he rode across the torrent, which barely reached the horse’s knees, and began to ascend the slope above the left bank. Before long he struck into the bed of a brawling streamlet that came tumbling over loose boulders down the declivity. As we advanced, the way became steeper, and shut in on either side by tall bushes and straggling climbers, all, as it seemed, beset with hooks and spines. There was nothing for it but to rely on our riding animals to carry us through as best they could, and wonderfully they demeaned themselves. Though patches of sky showed overhead, to our eyes the ground below was absolutely invisible; the boulders were evidently very large and slippery, and it was only by the most desperate struggles that the poor beasts succeeded in clambering up the slope, pausing frequently, with muscles quivering all over from the violence of their renewed struggles. The only thing for the riders to do was to hold on at all hazards, and keep their heads bent low, so as to save their faces from the spiny branches, that made havoc of their nether garments. The time seemed very long before we finally emerged on the shelf of more level ground which lies along this side of the valley, and soon after reached our quarters at Iminteli, at about half-past eight. As we knew that we should have time on the following morning, and the day’s work had been rather fatiguing, we yielded to the claims of nature, let our collections rest in their boxes and portfolios for the night, and soon after supper lay down to sleep. FOOTNOTES: [Footnote 1: The final letter is nearly or quite mute, and the name would by an ordinary Englishman be written Amsmee.] [Footnote 2: This is apparently the pass spoken of by Leo Africanus as leading from near Imizmizi (Amsmiz?) to the region of Guzula (the northern branch of the Sous valley). He says it is called Burris, that word meaning downy, because snow frequently falls there.—See _Ramusio_, vol. i. p. 17, B.] CHAPTER XI. Return to Amsmiz — Arround villagers in trouble — Pains and pleasures of a botanist — Ride across the plain — Mzouda — Experiences of a Governor in Marocco — Hospitable chief of Keira — A village in excitement — Arrival at Seksaoua — Fresh difficulties as to our route — A faithful black soldier — Rock vegetation at Seksaoua — Ascent of a neighbouring mountain — View of the Great Atlas — Absence of perpetual snow — Return of our envoy from Mtouga — Pass leading to Tarudant — Native names for the mountains — Milhaïn — Botanising in the rocks.