The morning hours of May 23 were devoted to the necessary work at
our collections of the preceding day; but before our departure we
once more took a short ramble through the ground surrounding the
village. With a single exception, all the plants seen were species
common to the Spanish peninsula, two or three being characteristic of
Central Spain. Apart from the style of building and the dress of the
inhabitants, a stranger transported to the spot might easily suppose
himself somewhere in Southern Europe, though closer examination
would suggest differences to the naturalist. At noon we started
on the way to Amsmiz, halting at the torrent in the bottom of the
valley to secure specimens of two very fine and undescribed plants,
both very troublesome to the collectors. One was a spiny _Genista_,
with very numerous, stiff, intricate branches; the other a fine
thistle, five or six feet high, whose long woolly leaves were beset
with sharp, slender, golden spines, fully an inch in length.
Without much further delay, we retraced the track that we had
followed on the morning of the 21st. We were once more struck by the
remarkable coolness of the climate of this region as compared with
somewhat similar positions in higher latitudes on the north and east
sides of the Mediterranean. Although the sun at noon now approached
within less than 15 degrees of the zenith, the temperature in the
shade was pleasantly cool, scarcely rising above 70° F. At the
same season, and at a greater height, on the Lebanon we have seen
the thermometer stand above 80° in the shade by day, and scarcely
fall to 70° at night. This is mainly due to the cool winds that
prevail along the coast, and extend some way inland, though not
much felt in summer in the city of Marocco. As we rode along the
eastern flank of the valley, and down the slopes above Amsmiz, we
were pleasantly fanned by a NW. breeze that often lasts throughout
the day, but subsides at night.
On the brow of the declivity overlooking Amsmiz, we met a messenger
from Arround, our stopping-place at the head of the Aït Mesan
valley, come to implore our protection for the unfortunate
inhabitants, whose appeal to us had only brought them into fresh
trouble. The story had of course been reported to the Vice-Governor
(El Graoui’s deputy) with the circumstance of the sacrifice of the
sheep. He had resented this attempt to escape from his authority,
had had some of the suppliants severely beaten, and sent two more
men of the village to prison. It seemed very doubtful whether any
interference on our part might not merely aggravate the condition
of these unfortunate people. We promised, however, to do what we
could for them; and before we left Mogador it was reported, whether
truly or falsely, that we had been successful in our intercession.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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