The difficulty of getting correct information in such a country as
this, as daily experience proved to us, is one of the most serious
difficulties of the traveller, and depends quite as much on the
incapacity of the natives as on the habitual suspicion with which
all strangers are regarded. One day when Kaïd el Hasbi appeared
to be in unusual good-humour we were endeavouring to obtain from
him information as to some place on our route, and the interpreter
being told to ask if he could make the matter clearer by reference
to the cardinal points, he answered in a tone of contempt, ‘Does
he take me for the captain of a steamer?’
After riding with us for two or three miles the Kaïd of Amsmiz
bade us a friendly farewell; and we continued in our course across
the plain, with occasional halts, in order more closely to examine
the vegetation, which was here less varied and interesting than
usual. Most of the surface was under grain crops—chiefly wheat
and barley—now ripe, and in great part cut and carried away. In
the drier waste tracts we once more came upon the characteristic
vegetation of the plains, _Acacia_, _Zizyphus Lotus_, _Rhus
pentaphylla_, and _Withania frutescens_ being the prevailing
shrubs. Of herbaceous plants _Elæoselinum meoides_, and other
large _Umbelliferæ_, with _Compositæ_ of the thistle tribe,
were most conspicuous.
In Beaudouin’s map the chief branch of the Oued Nfys is shown as
flowing parallel to the Atlas range from the south-west of Amsmiz,
and receiving as tributaries the Amsmiz torrent and the broad stream
that we had crossed near Gurgouri. On this day we satisfied ourselves
that this representation is erroneous. The unanimous statements of
the natives, confirmed by our own observations, proved that all the
waters flowing northward from the mountains between Amsmiz and the
borders of Mtouga are united in the stream that we had traversed
at Sheshaoua on its way to the main river Tensift. The practice of
intercepting the streams from the Atlas, and carrying them across
the plain through irrigation channels below the surface, makes it
extremely difficult to unravel the hydrography of this region.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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