About noon we reached the boundary that separates the districts
of Amsmiz and Mzouda, and agreed to the suggestion of a mid-day
halt under trees near a large village, of which, as we learned,
many of the inhabitants are Jews. From early morning the clouds
had been gathering along the mountain range, and by this time had
quite covered the sky. The temperature was unusually low, not rising
above 62° F. in the shade, and our hard work during most of the
preceding night supplies the only excuse for the fact that, after
a light luncheon, we both fell fast asleep, until aroused by the
information that it was two o’clock, and high time to continue our
journey. The flora being somewhat monotonous, we did not, perhaps,
lose much by this unusual neglect of duty; but we remembered with
regret that we had not ascertained to what species the tamarisk
tree belonged under which we had taken our rest.
The boundary between Amsmiz and Mzouda is here formed by a torrent
bed, now nearly dry, called by our escort Asif el Mel. This stream,
as was agreed on all hands, joins those farther west that run by
Sheshaoua to the Oued Tensift. As we rode onward across the plain
several heavy showers passed over, which thoroughly drenched the
scantily clothed men of our party, without at all quenching their
habitual good-humour, but the soldiers were well provided with
woollen coverings that kept them tolerably dry. There was little
attempt at collecting-plants during the afternoon, as it requires
a strong inducement to make a horseman whose outer clothing is
thoroughly wet set foot to the ground. We found the village of
Mzouda rather different in appearance from those we had hitherto
seen. The houses—small cubical blocks built of clay dried in the
sun—were less solid than the rough stone dwellings of the Atlas
mountaineers, but much superior to the miserable huts of the Arab
tribes in the plain of Marocco; and instead of the unsightly piles
of thorny branches commonly used by the latter, these were enclosed
within massive hedges of _Opuntia_ whose dimensions showed that
they were of considerable age.
As usual Kaïd el Hasbi had ridden forward with one of the soldiers
to present the letter to the Governor, and to announce our arrival;
and when, about 6 P.M., we reached the _kasbah_, quite a mile
from the village, we received a message inviting us to take up our
quarters within the building. As the ground outside was already wet,
and the evening sky threatened more rain, we at once accepted the
offer, and were conducted to two small but clean-looking rooms in a
square tower that formed one of the angles of the building. Between
the care of the small collections made during the day, and writing up
our notes, and a frugal supper, the time was fully occupied until 10
P.M., when by previous arrangement we paid our visit to the Governor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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