We found a spare-looking man of serious mien, quite devoid of the coarse, overfed, sensual aspect common among the men in authority in Marocco. The usual conversation as to the objects of our journey, led to an assurance that the district under his jurisdiction did not extend to the higher peaks of the Atlas, or, as it was expressed, ‘did not go to the snow.’ This may not improbably have been quite true, but our experience of El Hasbi’s machinations made us now very incredulous as to such statements. It was, however, obvious that Mzouda was not a convenient centre for mountain excursions, and we made no objection to the proposal that we should on the following day proceed to Seksaoua, which stands close to the foot of the mountains. When we came to know more of his history, we found no cause to wonder at the grave and depressed demeanour of our host. He had succeeded to the government of his native district in early life, and had held it for many years when he was invited by the Sultan to Fez. On his arrival he was thrown into a dungeon where he had remained ten years, frequently subjected to torture, until so much of the wealth he was supposed to have amassed during his administration had been disgorged as satisfied the demands of the sovereign or some ruling favourite; and then, being released, he was sent back again to govern his district with the agreeable prospect of renewing the same experience after some uncertain interval. If actual fact in this country did not supply frequent proof, it would seem scarcely credible that the attractions of power and comparative wealth should induce men to face such a terrible, yet almost inevitable, future. The sky had cleared during the night, but the morning of May 25 was unpromising. At 8 A.M., shortly before we started, the thermometer marked only 65° F., although our observations showed that in our yesterday’s ride of rather more than 20 miles we had descended fully 1,000 feet, the height of the _kasbah_ above the sea being calculated at 2,367 feet. The night had not been altogether pleasant, for, in spite of insect powder, the bugs had made a vigorous and successful attack, and we should have preferred to start at an earlier hour. But as usual Kaïd el Hasbi stood in the way. He was quite determined not to let the unbelieving strangers put him to the slightest inconvenience that could be avoided. Before we started the Governor sent Hooker a present of 20 dollars, which was of course immediately returned. The poor man doubtless thought it well to lose no chance of propitiating any influence that could possibly be of avail in the hour of future need. With the same object, he took the opportunity of sending through Abraham a dog to Mr. Carstensen at Mogador, and doubtless made presents to the officers of our escort.