the rooms, small and bare but perfectly clean, of which three were
given for our accommodation. Some fowls and eggs supplied by the
lighthouse-keeper, eked out by the provisions we had carried from
Tangier, produced an excellent supper, and the evening was fully
employed till a late hour in arranging and laying out the spoils
of our first day’s work in Marocco. It was near midnight when,
before turning in for the night, each in turn paused in the court
to enjoy the exquisite beauty of the scene. The full southern
moon poured a flood of silver light through the arched spaces,
converting the pattering spraydrops of the fountain into pearls and
diamonds. The shadows of the slender columns lay like bars of ebony
on the white flags; while, for a roof, the Great Bear, every star
twinkling its brightest, stretched upward towards the zenith. The
great tower rose in dark shadow, for the lantern was turned away
from us; but we could discern, streaming out to seaward, in spite
of the apparent clearness of the air, two faintly marked cones of
yellow light that were soon quenched in the moonlight. The air was
still, the sea was quiet, and at first the silence seemed unbroken;
but as the listener stood, the pulses of the great ocean, though
they smote but gently the cavernous rocks below, beat distinctly
on the ear, and marked the passing minutes.
We rose betimes next morning, finding fresh enjoyment in each breath
that we drew of the delicious air, and after breakfast set out for
a walk southward along the coast. For the first two or three miles
the rocky ground sloped downward towards our right, and finally fell
steeply to the beach. It was apparent that the season was not quite
advanced enough to enjoy the full beauty of the flora, but we found,
besides the _Drosophyllum_ already mentioned, many interesting
forms. Orchids were not so abundant as they usually are at this
season in the warmer part of the Mediterranean region. _Platanthera
diphylla_, growing in shady spots, was the only uncommon species.
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