It was near 4 P.M. when we started for Seksaoua, and, after crossing
the Oued Usbi, held on in a SW. direction nearly parallel to its
course. In little more than an hour we came to a large village,
which was the scene of unexpected commotion. As our cavalcade was
seen to approach, some natives ran on to announce the fact to the
villagers, and by the time we reached the first houses the whole
population turned out, and a scene ensued of which no description can
give an idea. The men who lined the way on either side shouted with
emulous vehemence and fury guttural sentences, illustrated by frantic
gesticulations, while the women and children kept up a deafening
accompaniment of shrieking, wailing, and howling, and the whole
formed a scene worthy of Pandemonium. It seemed sufficiently clear
that no hostile intentions against us were expressed, but amidst
the horrible din and confusion it was some minutes before we were
able to learn from Abraham the meaning of this wild excitement. It
appeared that, as constantly happens among the mountain people,
there was a feud between this and a neighbouring tribe; the village
had been attacked, or at least approached by the enemy, and one of
the villagers had been shot.
It was evident from the first that our brave escort felt extremely
uneasy; but when it became clear that the object of the people
was to invoke the protection of the soldiers of the Sultan against
further molestation, our two Kaïds for once thoroughly agreed on
a policy of strict neutrality, and in desiring to get as soon as
possible out of harm’s way. As for us, it may be feared that we
failed to maintain the gravity which, to the Oriental mind, befits
persons of distinction. Just when the confusion was at its worst,
and before we well understood what it portended, we happened to look
up to where on the top of the nearest house two or three storks, each
poised on one leg, were looking down on the frantic crowd. There was
something irresistibly ludicrous in the contrast between the air of
solemnity that characterises these birds and the insane excitement
of the human crowd below that set us off in a peal of laughter,
which we found it hard to tune down to decent seriousness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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