The uppermost anxiety of our escort being to get away from any chance
of being mixed up in the local troubles, they proposed to push on as
far as possible towards the mouth of the valley, and we were all the
better pleased to find ourselves as near as possible to the mountains
in which we still hoped to effect another excursion. It was not,
however, practicable to go far. About two miles above the village a
rocky spur projects from the mass of the Atlas towards the plain,
and is backed by a mountain mass rising some 2,500 or 3,000 feet
above the valley. At the eastern base of this rocky promontory, in
a stony field planted with young olive trees, we pitched our tents
on very rough ground, where it was not easy to find a level spot
to sleep upon, but where we promised ourselves good botanising in
the immediate neighbourhood, even if unable to penetrate far into
the mountains.
Some unusual precautions were taken this evening to guard against
a night attack upon our camp, and the Kaïds assumed an air of
importance befitting men who felt that the time had at length
arrived for a display of their professional skill and prowess;
but, as we fully expected, the night passed without the slightest
molestation. A few musket shots discharged at a distance were heard,
exchanged between the hostile parties, or more probably fired _in
terrorem_ to show that the defenders were ready for action. As
we heard no more on the subject, it is probable that no further
disturbance ensued during our stay in the neighbourhood.
On the morning of May 26 our first anxiety was to ascertain what
might be our prospect of reaching from this point the head of
the valley, and making another ascent of the main range. We had
already heard rumours of disturbances among the native tribes in
the upper part of the valley, so that our expectations of success
did not run high; and when the sheik of the valley was forthcoming
we were not much surprised to hear him declare that an excursion
in that direction was utterly impracticable. We at once suspected
Kaïd el Hasbi of practising his usual machinations to defeat our
intentions; but with the difference that on this occasion there
was probably some foundation in fact for the tales that were told
us of conflicts between the neighbouring tribes, and of possible
danger for travellers. With an escort furnished by the orders of the
Sultan, and quite numerous enough to inspire respect among the rude
mountaineers, there would have been no real risk in proceeding along
the valley—or anywhere else in this part of the country—provided
we could have reckoned on our men; but in the face of their refusal,
there was no use in further pressing the point.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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