We returned to camp between 5 and 6 P.M., and found that a courier from Mogador had arrived with letters from Mr. Carstensen. The whole province of Haha was, he assured us, in a most disturbed state; and besides, the war with Mtouga was complicated by the insurrection of some of the tribes in Haha against the authority of their own Governor. He strongly urged that we should abandon the intention of travelling along the skirts of the Atlas through Haha, and make up our minds to return from Mtouga by way of Shedma, telling us that he proposed to meet us at the _kasbah_ of the Governor of that province on the last day of May. We were very loth to forego the promise of seeing a district new to travellers, and far more interesting than any lying on the direct way from Mtouga to Mogador; but we felt it impossible to persevere in the face of Mr. Carstensen’s strong opposition. It was, indeed, open to question whether, under the ægis of the Sultan’s protection, we might not without serious risk have carried out our original intention. Whatever might be the intestine troubles of the country, it could not suit any of the contending parties to provoke encounter with the paramount authority of the Sultan; but we felt that we had no right to take a course directly opposed to the advice of the official representative of our Government, and especially of one to whom we felt under so many obligations. FOOTNOTES: [Footnote 1: Mr. Lempriere, an army surgeon, who went in 1791 by the invitation of the reigning Sultan to treat his son Mouley Absolon, Governor of Sous, probably travelled this way on his road from Tarudant to Marocco; but his narrative is too imperfect to establish the conclusion. See Appendix C.] CHAPTER XII. Departure from Milhaïn — Defile of Aïn Tarsil — Dwellings of the troglodytes — Arrival at Mtouga — Gloomy evening — Governor’s return from the fight — Prisoners of war — Their fate — Ride to Mskala — A venerable Moor — Return to the _kasbah_ of Shedma — Poisoned guests — Ride to Aïn el-Hadjar — The Iron mountain — Ancient mining work — Eccentric soldier — Ascent of Djebel Hadid — Ruins of Akermout — Ride to Mogador — A _kasbah_ in ruins — Powder play on the beach — Return to Mogador. The partial failure of our plans doubtless had a depressing effect on the morning of May 29, and this was increased by the aspect of the weather, which was misty, and before long turned to fine, drizzling rain. At 8 A.M. the thermometer stood at 58° F., and we found the height above the sea of our camp at Milhaïn to be 3,397 feet (1,035·3 metres). We were in no hurry to start; but, as the rain grew lighter and finally ceased, we got under way about 11 A.M. The sheik, who had provided for our wants and those of our escort on a liberal scale, escorted us for a short distance, and we parted with friendly expressions on both sides.