Our course lay somewhat west of due north, over a bare and sterile
country. Small hamlets, surrounded by a narrow belt of cultivation,
were seen at rather wide intervals; and, save a few olive trees near
the houses, we did not pass a single tree during the day. _Artemisia
Herba-alba_, and _Chenopodiaceæ_ of the _Salsola_ tribe, were
the prevailing plants, indicating the presence of gypsum and of
soluble salts in the soil. About three o’clock we approached
a large village, with a massive square _kasbah_, and soon after,
following a dry watercourse, entered the singular defile which,
as well as the village, is known by the name Aïn Tarsil. It has
evidently been formed by erosion from the limestone strata which
dip slightly towards the south. The surrounding country here shows
a hilly undulating surface, unbroken by any marked inequalities;
but the stream, though dry in ordinary weather, has cut a trench
from two to three miles in length, and from thirty to fifty feet
in width, between steep walls of rock about equal in height to the
width of the trench.
M. Balansa, the only traveller who is known to have passed through
this defile, must have been more hurried than we were, as he does
not speak of the numerous rare and local plants which grow upon the
rocks, most of them, indeed, the same that we had found on the rocks
about Seksaoua. But he could not avoid being struck by the singular
excavations in the rock, evidently used at some remote period for
human habitation, which extend at intervals along both sides of the
defile. In some cases there may have been a natural recess in the
rock, afterwards artificially enlarged; but the majority appear
to be altogether the work of human hands; and in most of them,
where the entrance had become difficult owing to the breaking away
of pieces of rock from the edge, this was afterwards made good by
building up a bit of loose wall of irregular blocks of stone. The
height of the entrance does not exceed four feet, and is often
less. The most singular point about these dwellings is the fact
that they are all near the top of the cliff, where the rock is
nearly vertical, in positions that cannot now be reached without
a ladder, or other artificial assistance. It might be suggested
that since these prehistoric dwellings were abandoned, the work of
erosion has deepened the trench, and thus increased the difficulty
of access; but unless we suppose that during the same period the
climatal conditions have been profoundly modified, this seems a
highly improbable explanation. As far as we could afterwards judge,
the watercourse running through the defile receives the drainage of
only a small tract of hill country, and the marks of water action do
not extend to the rocks on either side. It is impossible to see these
remains without being reminded of the notions current in antiquity as
to troglodytes who dwelt in the neighbourhood of the Atlas mountains,
and who could run faster than horses;[1] but until the dwellings
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