The night was overclouded, dark, and almost cold, and we were on foot
at an early hour on the morning of May 30. The _kasbah_, standing on
an elevated plateau, 3,085 feet (940·3 metres) above the sea-level,
does not, owing to the undulating character of the surface, command
any extensive view. Close beside it, a stream from the Atlas has
excavated a broad trench, similar in structure to Aïn Tarsil,
but very different in aspect. A streamlet here meanders along
the flat bottom between walls of rock some 40 feet in height,
and the more constant supply of moisture suffices to cover the
floor of the miniature valley with a carpet of vegetation, and to
support a fringe of tall water plants along the banks. We might
probably have added several species to our lists if we could have
devoted a day to botanising along the course of the stream; but in
the existing state of the country that could not be thought of,
and we contented ourselves with a morning stroll over the ground
surrounding the _kasbah_, and along the neighbouring banks of
the stream. As we wandered separately, Hooker was assailed with
extraordinary vehemence by a negro woman. Not a word could, of
course, be understood; but the objurgations of a virago are to some
extent intelligible in every language. It was not possible to guess
what induced this outpouring of threats and abuse, but it seemed
probable that a botanist might unconsciously have done something
to clash with the superstitious feelings of the natives. It is
clear that the religion of Mohammed reaches but skin deep with the
Bereber population, while traditional observances, derived from far
more ancient religious systems, are still deeply rooted among them.
Much to the relief of our escort, whose first anxiety was to get
away from the troubled district, we started about 10 A.M. The
Kaïd sent another message, again excusing himself from a personal
interview. We afterwards learned that he had made a present of
four dollars to each of our escort, of course with the object of
procuring some degree of support and countenance at head-quarters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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