Our course during the day lay between NW. and NNW., keeping for
a short distance along the course of the stream. At two or three
points we saw traces of rock dwellings, not nearly so well preserved
as those of Aïn Tarsil. Before long the walls of rock subsided on
each side of the stream, which bent in a westerly direction, while
our track ascended gently amid undulating downs, till we reached a
point commanding a wide unbroken view of the northern horizon. To
the eye the country before us seemed almost a dead level, but there
is a decided general slope from south to north, as we more fully
ascertained in the evening, when we found that we had descended
fully 1,500 feet during the day’s ride. The outline of the Iron
Mountain (Djebel Hadid) was now clearly traceable in the distance,
the highest part bearing about due NW. As we advanced there was a
manifest improvement in the fertility of the soil, and for a space
of five or six miles we rode amidst cultivated fields, apparently
the most productive that we had seen in South Marocco. The same
conditions necessarily affected the wild plants of the country,
and made it difficult to secure specimens of manageable dimensions
of several interesting species. A great _Daucus_ (_D. maximus_
of Desfontaines), probably a luxuriant form, or sub-species,
of the common carrot, grew to a height of four or five feet, and
the flowering umbels were often more than a foot in diameter. More
ornamental was a splendid _Centaurea_, three or four feet high, with
very large heads of deep orange flowers, often tinged with purple,
which we took to be altogether new. Subsequent examination made it
doubtful whether it should be separated from a very variable North
African species, _C. incana_ of Desfontaines, though much larger
in all its parts, and differing in the colour of the flowers.
We halted for luncheon near a village called Hazarar Assa, standing,
as we were assured, at the frontier, between the provinces of Mtouga
and Shedma. In Beaudouin’s map those provinces are separated by an
intervening strip of territory, apparently belonging to the Ouled
Bou Sba tribe. As political divisions in this country are subject
to frequent alteration, the map may have been correct at the time
it was made.
Maize was grown near the village, although no means for irrigation
were apparent. As the growth of this plant is in general absolutely
dependent on a frequent supply of water to the soil, we could only
infer that we had come within the limits of the coast climate,
and that as a general rule rain cannot there be very unfrequent
during the months of April, May, and June.
During the halt the villagers reported that fighting was still
going on in the neighbourhood, and a few gunshots were heard in the
distance; but, as our course led us away from the scene of action,
the result, if any, was never known to us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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