On the morning of May 31 our men were in no haste to bestir
themselves after the orgy of the preceding night, and we indulged
in a longer rest than usual. The weather was fine and clear,
but remarkably cool considering the moderate elevation of this
district. By our observations our camp stood at 1,562 feet (476·3
m.) above the sea; yet at 8 A.M., when the sun was already high above
the horizon, the thermometer marked only 65° F. It was suggested
that politeness required a visit to the old Governor, and Hooker,
with our interpreter and some of the escort, devoted himself to
that duty, while Ball set off alone for a short botanical ramble
over the bare, stony hills surrounding our camp. The excursion was
not very fruitful, except in the way of illustrating the effects
of barren soil and exposure, without the slightest shade or cover,
on the growth of many species that here assumed a dwarfed and
stunted condition.
Hooker, who had seen too much of the people of barbarous countries to
be open to the illusions that many travellers, new to their manners,
readily fall into, was, for once, very favourably impressed by his
interview with the Governor of Shedma. He had found an old man of
venerable aspect, with remarkably fine features, whose conversation
displayed a happy union of dignity and frankness. He was engaged
in superintending the distribution of pay to his soldiers, and the
subject that naturally arose for discussion was the part which he
and his forces were destined to play in the intestine troubles
of their neighbours. His instructions from the Sultan were, as
it seemed, of an indefinite kind. He had, in the first instance,
endeavoured to play the part of mediator and avert the outbreak
of hostilities. His present duty was to hold himself in readiness
to carry out such further orders as he might receive. Considering
the jealousies that always exist between the people of neighbouring
provinces, usually inhabited by tribes of different race and origin,
it may be doubted whether the troubles and losses of their neighbours
are in Marocco viewed as matters of deep concern; or whether, as
sometimes happens among the statesmen of more important countries,
the mediator may not feel some secret satisfaction at the failure
of his own proposals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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