In the afternoon our track bore more westward than before, keeping
about due NW. in general direction. We soon left the fertile ground
behind us, and for many miles rode over slightly undulating stony
downs, where the prevailing slope is always to the N. or NW. The
vegetation in these barren tracts is mostly of the social kind, two
or three species, or sometimes one only, prevailing over a wide area,
and then being suddenly supplanted by others. _Artemisia Herba-alba_,
and _Retama monosperma_, are in this part of the country the
dominant species. The monotony of the way was pleasantly broken by
crossing a little valley traversed by a mere rivulet, which, however,
sufficed to support a more varied and cheerful vegetation. From the
rising ground beyond it, we gained a view to the south, and saw at a
distance of eight or ten miles a massive pile of building crowning
a low, thickly-planted hill, with a large enclosed space occupying
part of the slope. The _kasbah_ belonged to the Kaïd of Haha, and
was on a scale proportioned to the importance of the Governor of
one of the largest and richest provinces of the empire. We found
additional reason for regretting the ill-timed local war, which
prevented us from paying him a visit. Although guilty of frequent
acts of atrocious cruelty, he was said to receive strangers with
the utmost courtesy and hospitality.
As evening was fast approaching, we rode hurriedly through a little
defile among the hills, where the rocks promised plants of interest,
and soon after came upon the first Argan trees that we had seen
since we quitted the province of Shedma, on April 30. Associated
as the tree was in our minds with Mogador, where we had bidden
farewell to European life, the sight awakened feelings of regret at
the approaching termination of our tour, tempered by satisfaction
at the prospect of returning to the usages and intercourse of
civilised life.
About seven o’clock we reached Mskala, a rather large village on a
stony slope, and saw close beside it an extensive camp where the old
Governor of Shedma, with a considerable force, was, by the Sultan’s
order, watching the progress of events in the contest between the
adjoining provinces. We established ourselves in a stony field a
few hundred yards away from the Governor’s camp, and before long
an ample _mona_, consisting of two sheep, twenty-four fowls, tea,
sugar, butter, and other luxuries, followed a little later by seven
large dishes of cooked food, satisfied the cravings of our ever
greedy soldiers, and the greater part of the night was devoted to
general feasting throughout our camp.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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