The large quadrangle formed a sort of stable-yard, wherein were
littered camels, horses, mules, and donkeys. The surrounding
enclosure, covered with a flat stone roof, was walled in on two
sides, and on the others formed a range of open sheds wherein the
camel drivers piled their burdens, or the keeper of the caravanserai
sheltered his cattle. On the other sides a series of doors gave
admission to as many small cellars, or dungeons, with no other
opening than the door for admitting light or air, empty, except for
remnants of dirty straw and rubbish, but apparently tenanted by every
imaginable variety of insect and creeping thing. The keeper of the
caravanserai, a repulsive-looking old man, threw open one of the
doors, and explained that the apartment had been reserved for our
use. No deliberation was necessary on this occasion, for a unanimous
declaration burst from our lips—nothing would induce us to enter
such a filthy den—and we at once announced our intention to pass
the night upon the roof. Our luggage was accordingly conveyed up
through a narrow stone staircase, and we proceeded to prepare our
frugal supper, of which portable soup was the chief ingredient,
and soon afterwards to make our arrangements for the night.
Our so-called interpreter had become altogether obnoxious to
us. During our mid-day halt he had coolly appropriated the most
comfortable spot in the shade, devoured most of our oranges, and
plainly showed that he had no notion of taking the slightest trouble
about a set of Frankish lunatics, who spent their time in grubbing
up little weeds by the roots, and looking at them through bits
of glass. He relieved us altogether of his presence this evening;
and we felt a certain satisfaction in thinking that his well-fed
carcase would during the night supply wholesome and abundant food
for the legions of hungry insects that tenanted the ground-floor
of our hotel. Old Bulbo, whether because he shared our preference
for the clean and airy quarters on the roof, or because he wished
to display his zeal for our protection, installed himself with the
long gun in the red case at a convenient distance, while we, after
slowly consuming the evening cigar, unrolled our cork mattresses,
and prepared our bivouac. We scarcely noticed at first the peculiar
construction of the roof. Round three sides of the building there
was a low parapet wall, but none whatever towards the front, where
the flags sloped slightly outwards, and ended abruptly at the edge of
the outer wall of the building. The stars shone brightly in the sky,
and a pleasant breeze from the east fanned our faces as we lay down
to rest on the front part of the roof, congratulating ourselves on
the excellence of our quarters, when compared to the misery we had
escaped below. Before long the breeze freshened, the night grew
cooler (55° Fahr.), and we were glad to lace the oilcloth covers
of our mattresses so as to keep out the keen air. Before doing
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