Before quitting this dry subject, it is necessary to remark that,
even as regards the relatively well-known district near Tangier
and Tetuan, the best maps are far from complete accuracy. In the
French War Office Map—undoubtedly the best map of Marocco—the
hill shading gives far too much importance to the comparatively
low hills running from WSW. to ENE. on the south side of Tangier,
and not enough to the range which we crossed between El Fondak
and Tetuan. This extends from the main mass of the Beni Hassan to
Ape’s Hill opposite Gibraltar, and divides the waters running
to the Atlantic from those of the Tetuan river. Over against this
(which we had just crossed) rose a parallel and more lofty range,
terminating in the bold craggy mass of the Beni Hosmar (B. Aouzmar
of the French map), rising steeply from the valley opposite Tetuan,
and to ascend this was the main object of our present excursion.
Soon after we entered the main valley, and were riding along a broad
track parallel to the Tetuan river, we came upon a group that for the
first time brought home to us an illustration of the true condition
of society in this country. A body of armed horsemen, many of them
true Negroes or mulattoes, were resting beside the way, broken
up into lively groups, laughing and chattering together. Amongst
them was a solitary man, poorly clothed, and, as we observed,
laden with heavy chains. He kept his back turned towards the track,
and seemed to take advantage of the halt to dip his feet into the
brook that ran along beside it. So numerous an escort in charge of
a single prisoner suggested something unusual, and we were led to
make inquiry. According to the story retailed to us, the chained
captive was lately the powerful governor of a distant province,
who had offered a stout resistance when summoned to the capital
to give an account of his administration. It is well understood in
Marocco that such summons, whether framed as a peremptory order or a
flattering invitation, has but one meaning—that the time has come
when it seems to the Sultan or his counsellors that the wretched
governor should be ‘squeezed,’ or, in other words, be forced
by torture to surrender whatever wealth he may have hoarded. As the
appointment of a new governor generally means that the province will
be subjected to fresh impositions and extortions, the people are apt
to side with the old governor, and sometimes, in a country where
the central power is so feeble, a man, by a judicious combination
of force and bribery, may long keep the government at bay, and
escape the miserable fate that usually awaits him. Our prisoner,
apparently, was too formidable a man to be safely kept at Fez or
Marocco, and was therefore sent to Tetuan, the extreme limit of
the territory, there to undergo such torture as might be necessary
to extort confession of the hiding place of his treasure, unless,
through ill-judged obstinacy, he should die in torments before
disgorging as much as might be expected.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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