Whether because there really is some slight diminution in the feeling
that has so long excluded strangers, and especially Christians,
from the interior of Marocco, or that previous travellers had
happened to make the attempt at unfavourable conjunctures, we found
that the letter to the Governor given to us by Sir J. D. Hay was
scarcely required, and no difficulty was raised about the requisite
official permission to ascend the Beni Hosmar, as the mountain mass
is called, which forms the end of the chain extending northward
from the Beni Hassan.
One of our party had already succeeded in ascending about half
the height of the mountain; but the only European known to have
reached the upper ridge was the late Mr. Barker Webb, the author of
the ‘Phytographia Canariensis,’ and other important botanical
works. He effected his object by liberal expenditure, having begun
by a present of 40_l_. to the Governor, besides handsome rewards
to those who were sent with him.
We had no occasion to follow this example. The protection of the
British Government, and the interest shown in our journey by the
British Minister, were quite sufficient arguments on our behalf,
and with the courteous assistance of the Spanish consul the
arrangements for our excursion were soon settled. The requisite
orders were issued by the Kaïd, and two soldiers were appointed,
along with our Tangier men, to escort us on the following morning.
In spite of the usual delays, we started in good time on the morning
of the 11th, and, descending over successive ledges of tufa, forming
terraces for gardens and orchards, soon reached the level of the
river, which was easily forded. The air was cool (55° Fahr. at 6
A.M.), the sky bright, and the hedges gay with the evergreen rose
(_R. sempervirens_), and the large-flowered form of the hedge
convolvulus (_C. sylvatica_), which in the South replaces our more
modest Northern form, _C. sepium_ of Linnæus. A short ascent among
trees and high hedges took us clear of the cultivated land, and the
aspect of the country at once changed. The upper part of the mountain
is disposed in tiers of limestone crags, irregularly disposed, and
therefore offering no difficulty for the ascent; but round the base
are rather steep and very arid slopes, formed, in great part, of
old accumulations of débris fallen from the upper crags. The most
conspicuous shrubs are lentisk, oak scrub, _Juniperus phœnicea_,
and several _Cisti_; but the palmetto successfully contends against
its rivals, and in some places quite covers the soil. It disappears,
however, before one reaches the middle height of the mountain, and
the limit of its free growth, not taking account of a few scattered
and stunted specimens, was found to be 1,227 feet (374 mètres)
above the sea. The prevailing species, however, were small shrubby
_Leguminosæ_. Of these the most trying to the temper of the botanist
is _Calycotome villosa_. This and the allied species (_C. spinosa_)
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