Choice of a route in the Atlas — Difficulty of procuring information — Hills near the city — Panorama of the Great Atlas — Probable height of the range — Wild birds of Marocco — Condition of the Jews — Departure from the city — Farewell interview with El Graoui — District of Mesfioua — Interview with the Kaïd — Approach to the Great Atlas — Aspect of the vegetation — Castle of Tasseremout — Washington’s visit — Jewish suppliants — Great boulder mounds — Ourika valley — Peculiarities of Moorish character — Rapacity of our escort 149 CHAPTER VIII. Vegetation of Ourika valley — Destruction of the native trees — Our progress checked — Enforced return — Shelluh village — Ride from Ourika to Reraya — Trouble with our escort — A friendly Shelluh sheik — Native desire for medical advice — Characteristics of the Shelluhs — Zaouia of Moulaï Ibrahim — Camp in Aït Mesan valley — Excursion to the head of the valley — Reach the snow — Night travelling in the Atlas 175 CHAPTER IX. The Shelluh sheik bribed — Arrangements for stopping at Arround — Medical practice among the Shelluhs — Arabic correspondence — Unexpected difficulty — Strange fancies of the natives — Threatening weather — Our house at Arround — Gloomy morning — Saint’s tomb — Escape from our guides — Strange encounter — Snow-storm — Tagherot pass — Descent to Arround — Continuance of bad weather — Sacrifice of a sheep — Shelluh mountaineers — Fauna of the Great Atlas — Return to Hasni — Deplorable condition of our camp 207 CHAPTER X. Departure from Hasni — Plateau of Sektana — Grand view of the Great Atlas — Departure of Maw — Village of Gurgouri — Intrigues of Kaïd el Hasbi — Passage of the Oued Nfys — Arrival at Amsmiz — Friendly Governor — Difficulties as to further progress — Position of Amsmiz — Sleeping quarters in the Kasbah — Fanatical sheik — Shelluh market — View of the Amsmiz valley — Village of Iminteli — Friendly Jews — Geological structure and vegetation of the valley — Sheik’s opposition overcome — Ascent of Djebel Tezah — The guide left behind — View from the summit — Anti-Atlas seen at last — Deserted dwellings on the peak — Ancient oak forest — Rapid descent — Night ride to Iminteli 239 CHAPTER XI.