At 1 A.M. on the morning of the 24th we were again under steam, and
soon after daylight speed was slackened as we lay off Mazagan. The
abruptness of the transition from deep blue water in the offing to a
somewhat milky green where the ship gets into shallower water here
attracted our notice. It is of common occurrence even on coasts
where there is reason to believe that the bed of the sea shelves
vary gradually away from the shore, and one might expect a gradual
change of tint; but no satisfactory explanation occurred to us.[2]
It was some time before the land came in sight, and we were able
to make out the square tower of the Portuguese fort that marks
the position of Mazagan. The town stands on a slightly projecting
point of land facing northward, and therefore especially exposed
to the north-east breeze that prevails throughout the spring and
summer. We lay all day rolling heavily, and the surf, breaking
in hills of foam upon the shore, was too high to allow of the
landing of cargo; but in the afternoon a small boat put off with
provisions. Amongst these was a large freshwater fish, a species
of shad, that had been caught in the Oued Oum-er-bia which runs
into the sea some five miles east of Mazagan close to the site of
Azemour, a ruined town once of some importance. The freshwater fish
of the streams from the Atlas may probably offer many objects of
interest to the ichthyologist, but do not seem likely to add much
to the resources of the cook. We were told that the fine-looking
animal which was displayed at table is considered a delicacy; but
we found the flesh insipid and cottony, and during our subsequent
journey we failed to find any fish worth eating.
Neither on this occasion nor on our return did we see any trace
of the ruins of Azemour or of the great river Oum-er-bia. This is
apparently the chief stream of Marocco. It drains the northern
declivity of the chain of the Great Atlas for a distance of 150
miles, and nearly the entire of the extensive mountainous region, a
still unknown network of high ridges and deep valleys, that covers
nearly half the space between the main chain and the Atlantic
seaboard. Like all the other rivers of this country the volume
of water varies to an extent unknown in Europe. In dry seasons,
when a large part of the waters that descend from the mountains
is diverted into irrigation channels, and never reaches the sea,
the main stream runs over a shallow bed fordable in many places;
but after heavy rains the swollen waters have such a rapid current
that we were told of travellers being detained a week or ten days
waiting for the opportunity of crossing it. Lieut., afterwards
Admiral, Washington[3] estimated the breadth of the river where
he crossed it, near Azemour, at 150 yards, and found it much the
same at about eighty miles from the sea on the return journey from
Marocco to the coast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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