Our stay on this occasion was short, and soon after dark we were
again in motion. We spent pleasantly enough our last evening on board
the _Vérité_. Though he took little pains to conceal his strong
prejudices against the English nation, our captain was thoroughly
good-natured and obliging towards the individual Englishmen
with whom he was associated. No doubt our scientific pursuits
recommended us to his good offices, for the slight smattering of
scientific knowledge acquired by half-educated persons in most
Continental countries has the effect of awakening some interest
in such pursuits. It may, indeed, be doubted whether, at least in
France, the teaching of physical science goes far enough to convey
any accurate knowledge, even of an elementary kind; but, at all
events, the national temperament leads Frenchmen to expose their
deficiencies more than other people readily do. An Englishman who
knows that he is not well grounded in a subject holds his tongue,
or if pressed by questions will probably exaggerate the extent of
his own ignorance, where a Frenchman will gaily lay down the law
and span over the gaps in his knowledge by startling bridges of
conjecture. Our worthy skipper amused us not a little when, in
conversation on the climate of this coast, reference being made
to the rainless zone of the Peruvian coast, he explained that in
that country the moisture of the air is absorbed by the gases that
accompany earthquakes, thus accounting to his own satisfaction for
the meteorological phenomenon. But the full vehemence of his nature
was reserved for matters of much more immediate interest. He had
left Marseilles after the Communist rising in that city had been
suppressed, but while the miserable tragic farce that was to end in
the horrors of May, 1871, was being enacted in Paris. He could not
allude to the subject without a degree of fury that to us seemed
utterly unreasonable. But it is easy for people at a distance to
treat such matters with calmness, and there were not many Englishmen
on the spot who at the time were able to share the noble calmness
of Lord Canning during the Indian Mutiny.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: Some fine specimens have been exhibited at the South
Kensington Museum, by our companion, Mr. Maw.]
[Footnote 2: Professor Tyndall has shown that the differences
of tint in seawater depend upon differences in the amount and
dimensions of the particles of solid matter held in suspension;
but the abruptness of the transition from one tint to another has,
we believe, not been fully explained.]
[Footnote 3: ‘Journal of the Royal Geographical Society,’
vol. i., pp. 132-151.]
CHAPTER IV.
Arrival at Mogador — The Sultan’s letter — Preparations for
our journey — The town of Mogador — The neighbouring country —
Ravages of locusts — Native races of South Marocco — Excursion
to the island — Climate of Mogador — Its influence on consumption
— Dinner with the Governor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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