At 5 A.M. on April 26 we at length reached the port of
Mogador. Before many minutes a boat was alongside, and we were warmly
welcomed by a gentleman who introduced himself as Mr. Carstensen, the
British Vice-Consul, brother-in-law of Sir J. D. Hay. He was, indeed,
no stranger; for, as a correspondent and active contributor to the
Royal Gardens at Kew, he had long been in friendly relations with
the chief of our party. To his energetic good offices and hospitable
attentions we owe deep obligations, and it was with sincere regret
that we subsequently heard of his premature death in 1873.
At an early hour we were comfortably established in the British
Consulate, where our host and hostess received us as old friends,
and we were soon engaged in discussion as to the arrangements for
the prosecution of our journey, in all of which Mr. Carstensen’s
familiarity with the country and perfect command of the language
were of the utmost value. Having received previous notice of our
arrival and of the objects of our journey, he had already prepared
the way, and thus very much abridged the delays that are inevitable
in such a country.
The first step necessary was to call on the Governor and present
to him the Sultan’s letter. We were courteously received by El
Hadj Hamara, a well-looking man of middle age, in a small plain
room, whose only furniture consisted in cushions laid round the
walls. After shaking hands in European fashion, we proceeded to seat
ourselves, cross-legged—no doubt looking very uncomfortable during
the experiment—while the Sultan’s letter was produced. This
was written on a small sheet of inferior paper, folded to the size
of a note, and sealed with coarse sealing-wax. It was received
by the Governor, the seal reverently applied to his forehead,
and then broken. After reading aloud the few lines of writing,
the Governor handed the letter to Mr. Carstensen, who proceeded to
translate literally for our benefit. It ran thus: ‘On receiving
this, you will send the English hakeem and his companions to the
care of my slave, El Graoui, to whom I have sent orders what he
is to do.’ It should be explained that El Graoui, spoken of as
the Sultan’s slave, was the Governor of the portion of the Great
Atlas that is practically subject to the Imperial authority, and
precisely the person whose favour and assistance it was essential
for our objects to secure.
To strangers unused to the style of the Marocco Court, the Imperial
letter did not seem a very promising document; but it was evident
that, so far as the Governor of Mogador was concerned, it conveyed
the impression that we were to be treated with respect and attention;
and this was doubtless confirmed by the arrival of a courier
from Marocco, bearing a letter from the Sultan’s eldest son,
then acting as viceroy in the southern provinces of the empire,
with orders to take every care for our safety and comfort during
the journey to the capital.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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