After devoting a good part of the day to indispensable preparations
for our future journey, we were free to look about us in the
singular little town which, as the chief port of South Marocco,
is the last outpost of civilisation on the African coast at this
side of the French settlements of Senegal. Like many other places
in Marocco, this owes its existence to the caprice of a Sultan. It
was founded in 1760 by Sidi Mohammed, the most energetic of recent
Moorish sovereigns, and became a considerable place when, a few years
later, the same ruler destroyed Agadir, and ordered the merchants
established there to remove to Mogador. Jackson tells us that it
received its European name from the sanctuary of Sidi Mogodol,
standing somewhere among the neighbouring sandhills; but a town of
Mogador is shown in a map published in 1608,[1] standing a short
way north of the island, which is there marked ‘I. Domegador.’
As have most of those marked on the early maps, the ancient town
had doubtless disappeared before the foundation of the present one,
called by the Moors Soueira; but the old name must have survived
in the country.
The low rocky island lying opposite to the town, and separated by a
navigable channel, affords shelter from all winds except those from
the SW.; but the depth of water is not great, and there are numerous
dangerous reefs, so that in threatening weather steam is always kept
up, and ships proceed to sea when SW. winds are expected. Although
the island is shown on the oldest maps, and the channel is
represented much as we now see it in the plates to Jackson’s
work, from drawings made about the beginning of this century, we
were positively assured that old people in Mogador recollected the
time when the island was connected with the mainland by an isthmus,
over which cattle could be driven at low water; and this story
seemed to have gained credence with the European inhabitants.
Though it has no buildings of importance, the town is in one respect
the most habitable in Marocco, being remarkably clean, and in that
respect superior to very many seaports in Europe. This is largely
due to the efforts of two intelligent French physicians, who have
at various periods visited Mogador, but especially to the exertions
of Dr. Thevenin, who has resided there for many years.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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