The Governor and other officials, with the European consuls and
merchants, all reside in the Kasbah—the chief of the three
quarters into which the town is divided. Here are several narrow
but regularly-built streets; the houses are mostly of two stories,
enclosing a small courtyard, which is entered by a low and narrow
doorway from the street. In the Moorish town, inhabited by natives
of the lower class, the houses are of one story, and poor in
appearance; but the practice of whitewashing within and without
once every week makes them look clean, and, no doubt, has much to
do with the remarkable immunity of this place from contagious and
endemic diseases. The Jewish town is much overcrowded; but we were
assured that even here the modern gospel of soap and water has made
much progress.
In the afternoon we sallied forth with our portfolios; but in
deference to public opinion, which could not endure that strangers
of consequence should be seen trudging on foot, we rode for about a
mile out of the town. Its surroundings are not prepossessing. The low
tertiary limestone rock, on which it is built, and which doubtless
extends inland for some distance, is covered up to the city walls
by blown sand, driven along the shore before the SW. winds, forming
dunes that cover the whole surface; and in most directions one may
ride two or three miles before encountering any other vegetation
than a few paltry attempts at cultivating vegetables for the table
within little enclosed plots, whose owners are constantly disputing
the ground with the intrusive sand. The chief break in the monotony
of the sand ridges is due to the small stream of the Oued Kseb
(called Oued el-Ghoreb on Beaudouin’s map), which reaches the sea
little more than a mile away on the south side of the town. Much
of the water being diverted, the current is not strong enough to
keep a channel through the sands, but forms at its mouth a marsh,
where many of the most interesting plants of the neighbourhood are
to be found. The drip from the small aqueduct that supplies water to
the town suffices to give nourishment to other less uncommon species.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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