In the agreeable society of old friends and new acquaintances, whom
we met on board the rather crowded steamer, the voyage to Gibraltar
did not appear too tedious, but we were well pleased when, on the
afternoon of the 6th, the moment came for landing.
We were not destined to see much of the famous ‘Rock’ or its
native ‘scorpions,’ whether biped or hexapod. Scarcely had our
voluminous baggage been transported to the hotel, when news reached
us that an English steamer was about to sail within two hours for
Tangier, and we at once decided that not a moment’s time should
be wasted. Back again our heavy goods, in which botanical paper was
a chief ingredient, were carried to the mole, and after paying the
innkeeper a pretty heavy ransom, on account of rooms ordered but not
used, and a hastily swallowed dinner, we once more found ourselves
afloat. So much haste was not necessary, for the steamer did not
start till some time after midnight; but the time was not badly
spent, for the steamer was one of those that ply between London and
the Canary Islands, touching at the ports on the Atlantic coast of
Marocco; and the skipper, who was an old stager, and had formed
his own opinions about the country, had plenty of information,
of a more or less authentic, but mainly discouraging, character,
which he was most ready to impart.
The distance from Gibraltar to Tangier is not more than thirty-five
miles, and we came to anchor in the open roadstead soon after
daylight on April 7. Unlike the ports on the Atlantic coast, the
shape of the land here gives some protection from the prevailing
westerly seas and winds; but in other respects this is a bad one. The
ruined mole, round which sand has accumulated, forms on one side
a dangerous reef, and elsewhere the shore shelves very slowly to a
moderate depth. Ships of any burthen are forced to lie out far from
shore, and the landing from boats is usually effected on the backs
of Jews, inasmuch as no Moslem will degrade himself by performing
such a service for a Christian.
On Good Friday the Jews were all engaged in the ceremonies of the
Passover; but, as the sea was unusually calm, we were able to land
on the ruins of the mole, and, after floundering through slippery
seaweed, we were not long in reaching the sea gate of the city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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