Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry DavyTobin, J. J.
History
Journal of a Tour in the Years 1828-1829, through Styria, Carniola, and Italy, whilst Accompanying the Late Sir Humphry Davy
Tobin, J. J.
Davy, Humphry, Sir, 1778-1829; Europe -- Description and travel
_25th._ We quitted Vöcklabrück at about ten in the morning, not at
all to my sorrow; and after a beautiful drive through fine fir woods
and lanes, where the hedges were already quite green, we arrived at
Gmünden, and beheld a scene which surpasses in magnificence any thing
I have ever yet seen. On one side of the hill down which we drove was
a wood of tall beeches, the leaves just bursting from the bud; on the
lower side, meadows of the most beautiful green sloped down to the town
of Gmünden, which seemed to rise out of the bosom of the lake of the
same name, or, as it is more generally called, the Traun Lake. Alps,
whose summits were hidden in the clouds, and on whose rocky heights
nothing was seen but the dark black pine, form the banks of this large
reservoir of water, in some places descending with precipitous and
almost perpendicular steepness into the clear lake, whilst in others
they are lost in fine meadows and orchards, with neat wooden cottages
peeping through the trees; and on an island in the lake we saw a large
chateau and church, which are joined to the main land by a long wooden
bridge. The best inn at Gmünden, the Ship, is close upon the edge of
the water, and commands a magnificent view over the whole extent of
the lake, and every window being provided with a little cushion, one
may enjoy the scene leaning on the window-sill for hours, without any
detriment to one's elbows. Gmünden itself is a pretty clean little town
at the north end of the lake, exactly on the spot where it empties
itself into the river Traun with an impetuous rush, thus dividing the
town into two distinct parts, connected by a strong wooden bridge
built on piles. On the shores of the lake are many beautiful small
villages, now and then seen through the half green trees, and at about
six miles from Gmünden, apparently at the end of the lake, is the town
of Traunkirchen, almost lost in distance and haziness. The water of
the lake is beautifully clear, and of a deep blue-green colour. After
reading to Sir Humphry in the evening, I spent an hour gazing out upon
the lake and its alpine shores, partially illuminated by the moon; the
more distant snowy summits seemed like detached clouds, resting as it
were upon the dark and gloomy masses beneath, which threw their long
broad shadows over the silvery bosom of the lake; while every here and
there on the surrounding shores, a few twinkling lights, seen between
the trees, marked the situation of a village or country house.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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